LIBRARY  OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS 

AT  URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


710 

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sponsible  for  us  return  to  the  library  from 
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^^VMWSlMn    AT    URBANA.CHAMPA.GN 


FEB  17 


977 


ret  ,  7  1977 
APR  17  JS7 


OCT  2  6 
JUNOg 


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AUG  1  9  WW 
EP  2 1  19J2 
SEP  3  0  1985 


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MAY  0  5  7388 
SEP  1  3 1188 


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VISTULA  AZBA^-Var.  PendmM   Uu-hmrla, 

(Cut   /..,,,-.,/    Weeping  Birch.; 


HAND    BOOK 


OF    PRACTICAL 


LANDSCAPE  GARDENING 


DZ8IGNXD  KOB 


CITY  AND    SUBURBAN    RESIDENCES, 


AND   COUNTRY   SCHOOL-HOUSES, 


CONTAINING 


DESIGNS  FOR  LOTS  AND  GROUNDS, 

From  a  lot  30  x  100  feet  to  a  40  acre  plot. 

Fjirh  plan  is  drawn  to  a  scale,  with  schedule  to  each,  showing  where  each  Tree, 
Shrub,  etc. ,  thould  be  plank  <l.     Also,  Condensed  Instructions  of  haw  to  form 
Laxrns,   and  the  care  thereof;    the  Building  of  Roads,    Turfing, 
Protection    of  Treee,   Pruning  and  care  of,   making   Cuttings, 
Evergreens,  Hedges,  Screens,  etc.;  Perennials,  Herbaceous 
Plants,  etc.     Also,   < Jond\  need  Descriptions  of  all  the 
leading   7'  Shrubs,  icitli  remarks  as  to  soil 

and  position  in   which  titty  should  be  grown. 
Illustration*  not  only  of  the  Ground  Plans 
and  Eli  cations  a  it  given,  but  Illustra- 
tions cf  various   Trees,   Shrubs, 
Winter  Gardening,  etc. 


BY   F.   R.   ELLIOTT, 

LANDSCAPE    GARDENER    AND    POMOLOGIST. 


D.  M.   DEWEY, 
Horticultural  Books,  Arcade  Hall,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

1877. 


£1V 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1877, 

By    D.    M.    DEWEY, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


C.  H.  STUJJP  &  CO '.,  PRIXTERS, 

Reynolds'1  Arcade,  Rochester. 


^Preface. 


In  the  preparation  of  this  work  we  have  aimed  at  no  esthetical 
ideas ;  but  believing  that  the  people,  as  a  whole,  need  some  practical 
guide  for  the  improvement  and  decoration  of  their  home  grounds,  we 
have  endeavored  to  make  practical  plans  to  a  scale,  and  from  which 
we  think  any  man  of  ordinary  intelligence  can  plant,  according  to  the 
plan  and  schedule  of  varieties. 

Since  the  labors  of  the  lamented  and  talented  A.J.  Downing, 
great  taste  and  desires  for,  and  in  the  improvement  of  grounds  around 
our  homes,  has  been  developed.  The  practical  utility,  as  well  as 
financial  value  of  rural  improvements  is  now  fully  understood  ;  and 
all  careful  observers  of  the  values  of  real  estate  concede  that  one  per 
cent  of  value  employed  in  decorating  a  rural  home  with  appropriate 
walks  and  roads ;  with  shade  trees,  shrubs  and  flowering  plants 
judiciously  arranged  in  the  planting,  will  add  forty  per  cent,  to  the 
value  of  the  same  when  neglected.  It  is  with  this  knowledge  of  the 
subject  that  we  now  present  our  work. 

It  is  well  known  that  a  small  cottage,  with  trees  and  flowering 
shrubs  judiciously  planted,  is  worth  double  the  value  of  a  two-story 
brick  house,  without  any  shade  decorations  around  it.  There  are 
many  who  reside  in  these  pleasant  cottages  around  our  country,  that 
have  more  of  real  enjoyment  than  the  man  with  a  palace  of  $50,000 
to  $80,000. 

There  have  been  many  elaborate  works  and  well-designed  plans, 
even  going  back  one  hundred  years,  but  none  of  them  have  been 
adapted  to  the  use  of  a  plain,  common-sense  man,  who  can  by 
measure,  work  to  a  scaled  plan.  The  majority  of  the  hooks  on 
"Landscape  Gardening  "  have,   according    to  our   knowledge,  been 


204194 


IV 


PREFACE. 


made  more  for  show,  and  as  guides  or  exciting  impulses  to  the  man 
of  wealth  intellectually  ;  but  when  the  work  has  to  be  performed,  a 
competent  landscape  gardener  has  to  be  employed. 

In  this  work  not  only  are  our  plans  made  to  a  scale,  but  each  tree 
to  be  planted  is  designated  by  numbers.  Again,  in  each  plan  we 
have  given  a  ground  plan  design  for  a  house  and  barn.  The  chapter 
on  school-houses  we  hope  will  meet  approval ;  and  we  thoughtfully 
hope  and  think  that  whoever  looks  over  our  work  will  give  us  credit, 
at  least  for  trying  to  do  good. 

As  a  landscape  gardener  of  forty  years'  practice,  we  feel  like 
assuring  those  who  follow  our  plans,  that  they  will  never  regret  the 
act.  F.  R.  E. 


RURAL  HOME  ADORNMENTS. 


The  value  of  everything  that  approaches  the  beautiful,  is 
enhanced  by  an  appropriate  setting.  Even  the  most  beautiful 
flower  of  nature  is  improved  by  its  Burrounding  of  delicately 
tinted  green  foliage.  The  artist,  when  exhibiting  his  most 
perfect  artificial  representation  of  nature,  places  it,  if  possible, 
with  a  surrounding  which  will  measnreably  attract  the  eye,  and 
ast  upon  the  picture  an  enhanced  breadth  and  height  of 
coloring,  combined  with  the  softness  which  Nature  in  her  hazy 
moods  gives  to  all  her  productions. 

Woman  in  all  her  beauty  is  rendered  even  more  attractive  in 
a  setting  of  appropriate  colors  and  forms  of  dress  ;  and  woe  be 
to  the  taste  of  a  blonde  who,  robing  herself  in  light  blue,  seeks 
to  decorate  for  relief  with  coral  ornaments.  The  opaque  red,  to 
use  a  common  phrase,  would  be  'dreadful"  ;  while  the  use  of  a 
pale  pink  would  light  up  and  dispel  the  pallid  moonshine  of  the 
blue,  and  give  to  all  a  rich,  pearly,  hazy,  rosy  hue,  as  of  early 
morn. 

These  lights  and  shades  being  well  understood  in  our 
artificial  "role,"  it  would  appear  that  in  the  more  permanent 
matters  of  life,  such  as  the  decorations  of  our  daily  homes,  they 
should  have  control;  yet  we  too  frequently  find  a  mansion 
Lence  constructed  after  the  best  taste  and  truest  principles  of 
architecture,  with  its  surrounding  fitting  as  inappropriate  as  a 
bright  yellow  would  be  for  a  lady's  walking  d: 

Of   the    Fink    Arts   in   Geotcbal   ani>  Landscape 

gardening  in  particular. 

There  are  many  amateurs  whose  minds  are  open  to  conviction 

and  inclined   to   truth,    but   whose   powers  of   observation  are 

not  sufficient  to  enable  them   to  discover   what  is  right  and 

appropriate,  until  it  is  pointed  out  to  them. 


6  HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


The  art  of  composition  embraced  in  Landscape  Gardening 
has  certain  principles  which  go  towards  forming  a  unity  of  the 
whole,  and  from  which  no  deviation  can  be  made  without 
marring  the  result  Taste  may  be  possessed  in  a  greater  or  less 
degree ;  but  without  reference  to  principles  it  will  fail  to  create 
a  design  of  harmonious  proportion  or  association.  It  is  to  be 
regretted  that  so  little  attention  is  given  to  the  subject  of 
principle  and  arrangement  of  tree,  shrub,  flower  and  path,  as  a 
whole  in  the  decoration  of  our  homes.  Thousands  on  thousands 
of  dollars  are  yearly  expended  in  the  creation  of  new  places 
that  have  to  be  again  remodeled  because  of  apparent  want,  when 
completed,  of  congeniality  and  harmony  necessary  to  an  effective 
whole. 

It  is  not  expected  that  every  man  will  or  can  be  a  land- 
scapist,  any  more  than  he  can  be  a  lawyer  or  physician  ;  but  he 
should  have  sufficient  love  for  his  own  home  to  induce  him  to 
study  the  principles  of  the  art,  so  as  to  be  able  to  appreciate  the 
reasons  for  arrangements  of  designs  submitted  by  a  landscape 
artist.  A  spirit  of  independence,  a  pride  and  love  for  the 
creation  of  one's  own,  should  imbue  every  citizen  to  the  improve- 
ment by  judicious  planting  of  his  home  grounds.  Were  this  the 
condition  of  things,  the  rapidity  and  beauty  of  new  home 
surroundings  would  be  greatly  enhanced,  and  many  grounds 
that  now  receive  frequent  remodeling  would  exhibit  most 
gratifying  results  within  a  period  of  five  to  six  years  from  first 
planting. 

It  may  be  pleasant  to  pass  through  an  apprenticeship  of 
learning  by  practice  the  character  of  tree  and  plant,  the  requisite 
breadth  of  lawn  or  road  to  give  the  best  effect,  or  to  arrange 
them  in  one  harmonious  whole,  but  it  consumes  years  of  time 
and  is  a  knowledge  which  may  be  bought  and  made  applicable 
whenever  the  purchaser  has  his  ground  ready  for  its  practice. 
These  prefatory  remarks  are  as  cautionary  against  one  of  the 
most  common  errors  in  ornamental  gardening,  viz:  That  of 
mixing  herbaceous  flowers  with  shrubs  and  trees,  by  which 
neither  can  thrive  properly  ;    or  if  they  do,  the  effect  of  the  one 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


is    injured    by    that    of    the    other.      Bowever    pleasing    and 
picturesque  it  may  rs  all  strh 

together  Tor  the  mastery   in  a  natural  wood,   yet  this  sort  of 
beauty  is  totally  •  and  however  much 

p  may  d  and  study  every  tree,  shrub  and 

plant  the  surplus  iu  a  reserve  border  in 
the  rear  garden,  than  to  destroy  unity  and  i 
a  crowding  of  varieties  incongruously  together.     Another  error 
common  I  gardens  La  the  want  <>f  b<  i  ag  feature  of 

Lch  as  the  creating  of  a  flower-garden  proper,  a 
fountain,  or  rockery  ;    the  two  last  named  arc  th 
and    require   a  tasteful,   experienced   landscape  artist  to  execute 
them  so   that   they  remain   permanent  and  beautiful  ornaments, 
harmonizing  with  the  surrounding  grounds. 

The  flower  garden  proper,  as  well  as  the  floral  beds,  are 
readilv  constructed  and  within  the  power  of  all.  More  or  less 
of  these  should  be  placed  near  the  house  so  that  more  or  less  of 
-  from  the  windows  of  the  house  will  look  down  upon  them. 
Various  patterns  for  the  arrangement  of  the  beds  and  paths  are 
found  in  all  works  on  landscape  gardening,  but  in  copying  them 
thought  should  be  taken  as  to  their  adaptation  to  the  position  or 
form  of  boundary  in  which  they  are  to  be  placed.  In  mc 
the  plans  in  this  work  we  have  given  specific  designation  of 
what  and  where  to  plant  We  will  now  turn  to  a  few  short 
hints  as  to  how  to  do  the  work  in  the  forming  of  a  new  place : 

The    Verge   of  Walks  and   Roads  should  always  be    made 
inconspicuous  ible.     The  less  the  v<  ted  above 

the  walk,  the  i  have  of  harsh  lie  thness 

and  harmoii .  ding  from  lawn  to  roadway  or  flower-bed. 

Some  gardeners  seem  to  think  thai  •'.  harsh  line,  or  verge 

of  two  inches  deep  or  more,    next  the   path,    is  a  mark  of  skill ; 
but   to   our   taste    it   is   only    an    exhibil  banical    labor 

breaking    in    upon    the    softness    of    Nature's  own   laws,   which 
always  resolve  into  one  another  without  any  harsh  iding 

feature.     The  verge  to  a  path  should   rise  from  the  path  j;;st  as 
little  as  possible,  it  even  extra   care  have  been    taken  to  r\y 


HAND-BOOK    OF   PRACTICAL 


line  sloping  underneath,  as  it  were,  so  that  when  the  roller  is 
passed  over  it,  the  line  of  demarkation  will  be  perceptible  only 
by  the  change  of  gravel  to  turf. 

Roll  the  Walks  and  Roads. — Frequent  rolling  of  the  path- 
ways during  winter  is  essential  to  keeping  them  firm  and 
smooth.  It  matters  not  whether  they  are  traveled  upon  or  not, 
they  should  be  rolled  over  every  time  when  the  frost  is  out  of 
the  surface  two  inches  or  more.  The  same  should  be  done  after 
every  rain  during  the  open  seasons  of  the  year. 

Garden  Soil  will  always  pay  for  trenching  deep,  even  if  done 
with  the  spade  ;  but  remember  to  keep  all  the  time  the  good  or 
surface  soil  at  the  top,  and  not  bury  it  at  the  bottom,  as  we  have 
seen  done  by  some  gardeners.  If  the  expense  of  trenching  the 
whole  garden  this  year  be  too  much  for  the  purse,  then  select 
one  portion  for  this  season's  improvement  and  another  for  next 
year.  Clay  soils  are  especially  benefited  by  trenching,  and 
while  such  soils  are  not  specially  adapted  to  early  crops,  the 
trenching  will  be  found  a  great  aid  in  the  aeration  it  gives 
toward  eorliness,  and  for  a  dry,  hot  summer  a  clay  soil  trenched 
is  superior  to  any  of  lighter  texture. 

Deciduous  Trees  and  Shrubs  should  be  planted  just  as  early  in 
the  season  as  the  ground  will  work  freely.  Do  not  delay  ;  for 
although  many  a  tree  succeeds  when  transplanted  late  in  the 
season,  should  an  unfavorable  season  occur,  it  will  not  grow  as 
vigorously,  and  frequently  gets  so  small  a  hold  in  the  soil,  that 
although  alive  at  the  commencement  of  winter,  spring  finds  it 
without  vitality  sufficient  to  make  a  new  growth. 

Turfing  New  Grounds. — When  turf  is  to  be  laid,  the  ground 
should  be  permitted  to  lay  and  settle  during  one  or  two  good 
rains  before  the  turf  is  put  on,  otherwise  it  will  settle  unevenly 
and  the  turf  be  full  of  holes.  After  the  ground  has  become  well 
settled,  rake  it  over  anew  and  level  again  ;  then  roll,  and  again 
rake  as  you  lay  the  turf.  Laying  the  turf  irregularly,  or  rather 
with  intervening  spaces  of  one  to  two  inches  wide,  and  filling 
with  soil,  then  seeding  with  grass  seed  and  rolling  all  down 
together,   is   now   practiced    pretty   generally   and  with    great 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


success   in    its    results.     No    besting   il   given  to  the  sod — the 
roller  doing  all  the  pressure  needed  to  form  a  good  Bor£ 

Seed  j<>r  Ltnoru. —  Let  the  ground  he  first  thoroughly  prepared, 
that  is,  dag  at  least  one  foot    Letter  ;..  be  eighteen  inches — 

deep,  and  all  of  this  depth  to  be  of  good,  rich,  loamy  sod.  n 
inehes  of  poor  clay  or  sand  with  two  inches  «>f  top  dressing,  l»ut 
all  the  depth  of  good  loam  Buitable   for  -rowing  a  beavy  crop  of 
corn  or  a  bed  of  carrots;  make  the  whole  depth  and  quality  of 
soil  uniform,  without  regard  to  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  gn 
in  other  words,  do  not  form  the  soil  in  one  place  fourteen  inehes 
deep  and  in  another  only  ten,  and   then  calling  it  an  average  of 
one  foot;    because  the  lawn  hereafter  will  tell  of  your  work  by 
its  exhibit  of  rich  green  grass  in  the  deep  soil   places  and   of 
yellow  dried  spots  in  the  shallow  ones  ;  but  make  it  all  an  even, 
regular  depth,  whether  on  arising  knoll  or  a  low   level  grade 
Rake  and  pulverize  with  the  roller  all  the  top  surface  as  fin 
an  ash  heap.      When  ready  for   sowing,  procure  for  one  acre— or 
in    proportions   according   to    the    surface    to    be    seeded — two 
bushels  of  Blue  Grass,  two  bushels  of  Red  Top.  half  a  bushel  of 
Creeping  Bent,  and  one-eighth  bushel  of  White  Clover:   mingle 
them  well  together,  and  then  divide  into  three  equal  parts.     S  -w 
iirst   one   part;    then  go  over  the  ground  with  a  line  rake,  sal 
from  north  to  south,  raking  the  whole  surface  back  and  forth  to 
lightly  cover  the  seed;    then  sow  another  third  portion  of  the 
seed  and  repeat  the  raking  <e,  or  from  east  to  we.-t  ;   then 

sow  the  last  remaining  portion  of  seed,  and  with  a  bcavy  roller, 

roll  or  press  the  whole  surfaee,  both  for  the  pnrp  i f  cementing 

the  seed  in  the  soil  for  vegetating,  and  also  id    prevont  measur- 
ably the  wash   liable  to  accrue  from   rains.      We   BOmetimt 
advice  of  one  bushel  ofaeedtoan  acre;  again,  of  two  orl 
with  a  sprinkling  of  rye.  as  they  amy,  to  ahade  theyoun 
the  adviser  probably  forgetting  that  the  itrong,  rank  roots  of  the 
rye  do  more  injury  by  extraction  of   moisture  and    f 1  from  the 

roo's  than  the  benefit,  if  there  m  any,  obtained  from  its  shade. 

Loudon,    we    believe,    was  in    the   practice   ..f    Qsing    from    >i\    to 

eight  bushels  of  seed  to  tin-  acre;  Downing,  from  (bur  to 
and  our  experience  of  twenty  yean  over  many  ami  many  an 


10 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


acre  is,  that  if  a  good  firm  lawn  is  expected  the  first  year,  it  is 
always  unsafe  to  use  less  than  four  bushels,  and  that  the 
addition  of  one  or  two  bushels  more  well  pays  in  the  thick  nest 
of  grass  readily  grown  and  the  lessening  of  labor  in  extracting 
weeds  that,  where  no  grass  is,  will  surely  grow.  A  top  dressing 
of  bone  meal,  ten  bushels  to  the  acre,  with  two  bushels  of  salt 
and  one-half  bushel  of  gypsum  (plaster),  will  also  always  be 
found  a  profitable  expenditure. 

Grass  Lawns. — When  newly  made  must  not  be  so  closely 
mown  as  old  turf,  but  mowing  must  be  performed  with 
regularity,  or  it  is  impossible  to  obtain  a  uniform  velvety  green 
surface.  To  mow  close  a  well-established  turf  is  to  encourage 
the  fine  grasses  and  kill  out  the  coarse  kinds.  Salt  and  plaster 
are  good  manures.  Use  at  the  rate  of  one  bushel  of  plaster  and 
three  bushels  of  salt  to  the  acre,  and  sow  just  before  a  rain.  To 
have  a  good  lawn,  it  should  be  freely  mown,  and  no  matter  how 
closely,  early  in  the  season  ;  but  as  soon  as  the  hot  season  comes 
on,  the  mowing  should  be  less  frequent  and  less  close ;  while 
during  August,  care  should  be  had  to  rolling  it  often  and  early 
in  the  morning,  while  the  dew  is  on  and  the  mowing  high,  or 
just  so  that  no  seed  be  formed.  As  soon  as  the  fall  rains 
commence,  then  the  lawn  may  be  closely  mown  again  ;  but  near 
the  close  of  the  season  it  should  be  left  to  form  a  growth  for  a 
winter  coat  of  protection  to  the  crowns  of  the  roots.  These 
remarks  will  be  found  in  practice  just  as  applicable  where 
command  of  water  for  sprinkling  is  had  as  where  it  is  not.  The 
result,  however,  will  not  as  soon  develop. 

Keep  the  Surface  of  the  Ground  Loose. — We  have  many  years 
watched  the  varied  results  of  the  cultivator  who  keeps  frequently 
stirring  the  surface  of  his  soil,  and  the  one  who  hoes  or  cultivates 
only  when  the  weeds  compel  him  to  the  work  ;  and  as  we  have 
watched  and  recorded  our  notes,  the  result  has  always  been  in 
favor  of  the  constant  stirring  of  the  surface  soil.  We  do  not 
advocate  deep  tillage  during  the  growing  season,  but  we  would 
have  the  ground  deeply  and  thoroughly  stirred  early  in  the 
season,  whether  it  were  an  old  or  new  plantation.  Once,  how- 
ever, that  vigorous  growth  of  top  and  root  has  commenced,  all 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING.  11 

deep  tillage  should  cease,  because,  by  pursuing  it,  constant  and 
continued  checks  are  given,  ami  a  truly  healthy  growth 
prevented  by  repeated  breaking  and  tearing  asunder  the  roots 
and  fibers,  the  supplying  pipes  for  elongation,  expansion  and 
evaporation  of  the  branches  and  leaves.  By  repeated  surface 
stirring  of  the  soil,  however,  no  roots  are  broken  ;  the  sun,  air 
and  moisture  are  enabled  t<>  penetrate  and  assist  in  the  chemical 
transmutation  <>f  the  earths  compounds,  and  fitting  them  for 
absorption  by  the  roots. 

Protect  the  Croicns  of  Trees. — Experience  is  a  good  teacher,  and 
it  has  taught  us  that  the  action  of  severe  frosts,  followed  by 
rapid   thaws  on  the  surface  roots  and  crowns  of  trees,  creates 
very  great  injury,  often  resulting  in  death.     We  have  known 
trees  healthy  on  approach  of  winter,  and  the  same  when  dug  in 
spring ;  we  have  found  them  with  all   the  top  and  the  lower 
roots   uninjured,    but    the   crown    and    surface    roots    entirely 
blackened  and  dead.    This  is  often  a  result  with  grape-vines — in 
fact,    we  have   seen  hundreds   of  vines  exhibit  this  condition. 
During  the  past  autumn  we  have  repeatedly  urged  the  earthing 
up  to  the  crowns  of  trees  and  plants,  with  a  view  to  prevention 
of  this  result     We  now  say,  look  over  your  trees  carefully,  and 
if  v-.u  have  not  turned  the  earth  toward  them,  thus  covering  the 
surface  roots  and  crowns  two  or  three  inches  deeper  than  their 
position  during  the  growing  season,  you  should  now  do  it  by  a 
mulch  of  some  sort.     In  the  forest,  Nature  herself  performs  this 
act   by   the  dropping  of  the  leaves;  but  in  the  open  ground, 
unless  the  trees  stand  in  turf,  and  the  fall  growth  of  grass  is  left, 
no  such   protection   is  had.     Surface-rooting  plants,  such  as  the 
quince,    Paradise   apple,  etc.,    and  all    newly-planted    vines  or 
plants,  suffer  greater  injury,  because  of  the  greater  number  of 
surface  roots  than  older  or  stronger  rooted  plants;    but  all  are 
affected,  and  the  severity  of  the  winter  and  number  of  changes 
of  frost  and  thaws  will  tell  the  result  the  next  season— sometimes 
in  enfeebled  growth,  sometimes  in  complete  death. 

Pruning  Trees  in  Spring.-  When  pruning  trees  in  the  ipring, 
remember  that  for  every  bud  or  inch  of  wood  you  cut  away,  two 
more  will  be  formed  ;    and  if  you  do  not  so  cut  as  to  throw  the 


12  HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 

elongation  from  the  last  bud  on  the  shoot  left  in  an  outward 
direction,  your  tree  will  soon  be  a  mass  of  shoots  and  branches, 
and  cause  you  to  oppose  any  practice  of  pruning.  On  the  other 
hand,  if  you  carefully  study  the  probable  continuation  of  each 
bud  left  at  the  end  of  the  shoot  pruned,  you  can  form  your  tree 
into  a  round,  open,  compact  or  spreading  head,  according  to 
your  fancy.  We  could  write  a  whole  book  on  this  item ;  but 
our  belief  is  that  a  few  practical  words  of  guidance  are  all  that  is 
requisite  to  induce  thought  in  the  good  common  sense  of  our 
readers. 

Winter  Pruning. — We  do  not  advocate  winter  pruning, 
because  we  think  the  wound  made  by  the  cut  at  this  time  more 
liable  to  dry,  and  crack,  and  open,  exposing  it  to  water  lodgment 
as  well  as  to  harden  at  the  edge,  more  than  when  performed 
early  in  autumn  or  just  as  the  sap  starts  in  spring.  If,  however, 
winter  pruning  has  to  be  done,  the  operator  should  select  a  time 
when  the  temperature,  if  possible,  is  above  freezing  point,  and  in 
the  middle  of  the  day,  and  even  then  we  would  never  cut  away 
any  large  or  strong  limbs  at  this  time. 

Plow  up  to  the  Boots  of  Trees  and  Vines. — All  young  orchard 
trees,  grape-vines,  raspberries,  blackberries,  gooseberries,  etc., 
should  have  the  earth  either  plowed  or  shoveled  up  toward  them, 
leaving  the  center  line  between  rows  as  a  surface  water-line  for 
winter  drainage.  Breaking  of  the  roots  by  the  plow  in  autumn 
will  not  injure  the  plants,  trees  or  vines,  so  that  the  laborer  need 
not  be  afraid  of  going  too  deep  with  plow  or  spade.  Leave  the 
ground  as  rough  as  it  will  naturally  lie, — in  other  words,  do  not 
rake  and  smooth  down  after  plow  or  spade,  because,  when  left 
rough,  the  action  of  the  elements  during  winter  serves  almost  as 
good  a  purpose  as  a  light  dressing  of  manure. 

Bush  and  Pyramid  Trees,  under  the  common  name  of  dwarfs, 
should  be  carefully  watched  and  pinched  back  from  time  to  time, 
if  any  special  form  is  desired  to  be  retained. 

/Shrubs  under  Drip  of  Trees. — It  sometimes  becomes  necessary 
to  plant  some  shrubs  under  the  shade  and  drip  of  trees,  in  order 
to    make    up    for    the    loss    of    branches,    etc.     The  Daphne 


LANDSCAPE    6AR1  KM  Ml.  18 

mezereum,  Mahonia  aquifolia,  Hypericum  percinum,  barberries 
of  all  sorts,  ami  also  privet,  are  good  plants  for  the  purp 
covering  the  ground  in  the  summer,   in   places  where  the 
fails  to  succeed,  the  varieties  of  vinca,  of  ribbon  grass,  Hypericum 

hirsutum  and  Irish  ivy  are  among  the  many  good   vims  and 
creepers  that  may  be  used. 

Hardy  Shrubs  are  readily   propagated  from   cuttings  of  the 
present  year's  growth  of  wood. 

It  is  better  to  make  cuttings  of  all  hardy  shrubs,  as  run- 
gooseberries,  wieglas,  spiraeas,  etc.,  in  the  autumn  than  to  delay 
until  mid-winter  or  spring.  At  this  time  the  wood  and  bud  are 
all  in  full  health  and  capable  of  sustaining  themselves  int«> 
growth  in  spring  independent  of  the  root;  but  late  in  winter 
they  are  often  so  much  enfeebled  by  exhaustion  and  exposure  to 
extremes  of  cold,  that  often  they  fail  to  grow  even  under  the 
best  of  care.  This  loss  of  vitality,  if  the  shoot  or  bud  were  left 
on  the  parent  plant,  would  be  renewed  in  the  spring  by  means 
of  the  roots,  but  when  separated  therefrom,  can  not  be  replaced, 
and  hence  the  cause  for  a  too  oft  failure  in  growing  winter-made 
cuttings.  Cuttings  early  in  Autumn  may  be  at  once  planted  out 
in  the  open  ground  where  they  are  to  grow,  and  covered  entirely 
first  with  earth,  then  over  it  with  a  light  character  of  mulch,  as 
straw,  meadow  hay,  etc.,  the  mulch  to  be  removed  in  Bpring  and 
the  earth  also  down  to  a  strong  bud.  Or  the  cuttings  ma 
tied  in  bundles  and  packed  in  clean  sand  in  a  cool  cellar  or  pit, 
or  they  may  be  packed  away  in  thin  layers,  with  moss  inter- 
vening, and  so  kept  for  planting  out  in  early  spring. 

Roses  Propagated  by  means  of  Layers  should,  as  Boon  as  it  is 
certain  they  have  become  rooted,  be  taken  up  and  potted  off  in 
good  sharp,  rich,  sandy  soil.  It  is  no  trick  to  form  the  ! 
but  many  rose-growers  know  to  their  cost  the  loss  attendant 
during  winter  of  layered  plants  taken  up  and  potted  or  heeled  in 
at  the  close  of  the  growing  season.  Pot  them  as  soon  as  thej 
have  made  an  inch  of  root;  set  them  in  a  shady  pla 
carefully  for  a  few  days,  or  until  there  is  no  appearance  of  ihflU 
flagging,  when  the  pots  may  be  plunged  in  the  soil,  out  in  the 


14  HAND-BOOK  OF  PRACTICAL 

full  light,  and  by  the  close  of  the  season  each  will  present  a  wel :- 
grown  and  bushy  plant  Of  course  they  must  be  occasionally 
watered. 

Evergreens,  where  they  can  be  procured  from  a  near-by 
nursery,  may  be  removed  with  almost  sure  success  during 
October.  The  trees  have  completed  their  growth,  and  the  soil 
being  warm  when  removed,  the  broken  roots  will  heal  and  form 
new  roots  much  more  rapidly  than  in  spring,  when  the  earth  is 
cold.  Keep  the  roots  from  even  a  half  hour's  drying ;  and  when 
planting,  thoroughly  saturate  the  ground  immediately  in  connec- 
tion with  copious  watering,  before  completely  filling  in  all  the 
earth.  If  a  rainy  time  occur,  the  artificial  watering  may  be 
dispensed  with.  If  but  a  few  trees  are  to  be  removed,  the 
operator  can  almost  always  select  a  cloudy  or  drizzling,  rainy 
day,  when,  if  it  is  not  quite  so  pleasant  working,  there  is  less 
care  required  to  keep  the  roots  from  drying,  and  the  application 
of  water  by  hand  can  be  entirely  dispensed  with. 

Perennials.— October  month  is  one  of  the  best  for  transplant- 
ing and  dividing  perennial  plants  ;  and  as  flowering  perennials 
are  among  the  easiest  cultivated  in  forming  a  flower  garden,  and 
abound  in  great  diversity  of  foliage  and  color  of  flower,  they 
should  be  freely  planted  in  every  garden.  Prepare  the  ground 
by  digging  it  fully  one  foot  deep,  and  mingling — unless  already 
rich — a  quantity  of  well  decomposed  manure  or  compost. 
Obtain  the  plants  from  a  reliable  dealer — order  good  strong 
roots — plant  them  carefully,  and  then  spread  a  light  covering  of 
coarse  straw  manure,  say  two  inches  deep,  over  all  for  winter 
protection. 

Hollyhocks. — The  production  of  seedling  varieties  of  the  holly- 
hock has  been  very  great  during  the  past  ten  years,  and  at  this 
time  they  equal,  if  they  do  not  surpass,  in  beauty  the  dahlia. 
They  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  can  be  left  in  the  open  border 
with  impunity.  Seeds  of  choice  kinds  sown  early  in  the  season 
in  a  hot-bed  frame,  and  got  ready  for  transplanting  in  May,  will 
flower  the  same  season  ;  while  divisions  and  cuttings  from  choice 
varieties  already  produced  may  be  made,  and  by  giving  them  a 
slight  start  in  a  frame,  will  transplant  and  bloom  finely,  forming 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


15 


one  of  the  cheapest  and  most  effective  background  features  for  a 
flower  garden  imaginable.  Make  the  ground  deep  and  rich  with 
abundance  of  well  rotted  row-dung. 

Herbaceous  Plants.— Hard)  herbaceous  plants  should  be  trans- 
planted as  early  as  tlie  ground  can  be  worked  freely.  After 
planting,  cover  the  crowns  with  an  inch  or  two  of  leal  mold  or 
chip  dirt,  as  it  will  greatly  assist  them  in  resisting  the  freezing 
and  thawing  until  the  full  opening  of  spring,  [n  digging  over 
beds  of  herbaceous  plants,  be  careful,  as  manj  plants  like 
peonias,  campanulas,  etc.,  are  often  destroyed  by  spading  or 
forking,  and  thus  destroying  their  crowns  ere  they  have  shown 
their  buds  above  ground.  It  is  always  well  to  be  in  time  ;  but 
better  wait  a  day  or  two  more  rather  than  dig,  until  each  plant 
can  be  distinctly  traced  in  its  position. 

Herbaceous  Plants,  as  Boon  as  they  have  done  (lowering,  may 
be  easily  propagated  by  cuttings.  These  should  be  planted  in  a 
cold  frame  in  a  mixture  of  sand  and  loam,  and  kept  shaded 
until  roots  have  formed. 

Hardy  Annuals. — In  selecting  varieties  of  hardy  annuals,  seek 
rather  a  few  of  those,  that  bloom  freely  and  grow  vigorously, 
than  to  make  your  collection  one  of  varieties.  Very  little 
satisfactory  effect  can  be  obtained  from  a  great  variety,  many  of 
them  possessing  no  distinctive  character  of  color,  however  pretty 
aud  curious  they  may  be  to  the  botanist  Large  masses  of  a  few 
sorts  and  of  distinct  colors,  white,  crimson  etc.,  such  as  candy* 
tufts,  phlox-Druminondi,  etc.,  will  give,  are  very  effective  either 
in  small  gardens  or  on  extensive  lawns. 

Bedding  Plants  require  special  attention  to  pinching  and 
pegging,  for  on  this  depends  greatly  the  beauty  of  display  as  the 
plants  come  into  bloom. 

A  Bed  of  Lilies. — By  all  means  plant  out  a  bed  of  Japan  lilies. 
Select,  if  you  can,  a  position  where  when  they  come  into  flower 
you  will  have  to  look  up  rather  than  down  to  see  the  flower ; 
make  the  ground  two  feet  or  more  deep,  working  into  it  plenty 
of  well-rotted  compost  manure;  then  get  the  varieties  of  lily  in 
all  their  numbers ;    plant  them  at  distances  of  about  one  foot 


16 


HAND-BOOK    OF   PRACTICAL 


apart  each  way,  setting  the  bulb  in  clean  sand  and  covering 
about  three  inches  deep. 

We  have  been  at  one  time  particularly  observant  of  two  beds 
of  Japan  lilies  io  a  neighbors  garden, — one  growing  in  the 
ordinary  open  exposed  garden  bed,  the  other  planted  among 
some  rock  work  on  the  north  side  of  the  house.  The  first 
blooms  a  few  days  the  earliest,  but  the  flowers  are  soon  gone, 
while  the  latter  continues  in  bloom  nearly  six  weeks. 

This  is  a  significant  hint  to  planters  of  hardy  bulbs,  as  it 
means  that  the  latter  bed  has  moisture  and  depth  for  the  roots, 
sustaining  their  growth  for  a  long  period,  while  the  former,  by 
reason  of  open  exposure,  are  enhanced  perhaps  in  period  of 
blooms,  but  from  the  heat  arc  brought  rapidly  to  maturity. 
Planters  of  lilies,  therefore,  should,  in  order  to  have  abundant 
and  long  continued  blooms,  dig  the  ground  very  deep,  and  in 
spring,  or  just  before  blooming  time,  shield  the  surface  by  a 
light  surface  mulching. 

/Soil  fur  Lilies. —  In  the  ordinary  prepared  soils  of  eight  inches 
deep,  for  the  Japan  lilies,  the  growth  of  flower  stems  varies  from 
eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  in  height;  but  where  the  ground  is 
prepared  some  eighteen  inches  deep,  of  rich  soil  and  drained,  the 
flower  steins  rise  to  four  and  five  feet,  and  with  proportionate 
increase  of  flowers  Lilium  auratum  has  been  grown  with  stems 
nine  feet  high,  and  having  nineteen  perfect  flowers  upon  it, 
some  of  which  have  measured  one  foot  in  diameter. 

Hoe  with  the  Rake. — This  may  be  an  Irishman's  advice,  but  we 
have  found  great  advaniage  in  the  use  of  an  iron  tooth  rake  or 
toothed  hoe  during  the  early  cultivation  of  all  garden  crops. 
We  go  over  our  beets,  parsnips,  peas,  beans,  etc.,  with  a  twelve 
tooth  steel  rake  as  soon  as  the)7  show  sign  of  coming  above 
ground.  For  potatoes,  corn,  and  for  working  among  raspberries 
and  other  small  fruits,  and  for  stirring  the  surface  earth  around 
dwarf  pears  and  recently  planted  trees,  we  use  a  four-pronged 
hook  or  hoe,  with  which  a  man  will  perform  nearly  or  quite  one 
sixth  more  work  in  a  day,  destroy  the  weeds,  and  leave  the 
ground  always  light,  loose  and  even. 


LtND6GA.PI    'i.vui  KM  17 


CONDENSED  DESCRIPTIONS  OF  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


We  commence  this  list  with  the  Evergreen  trees  and  shrubs 

or  creepers.  The  trees  are  valuable  :is  screens  from  cohl  winds, 
hedges,  and  as  features  of  beauty  and  <>f  back-grounds  in  the 
creation  of  beautiful  home  grounds,  and  especially  do  they  give 

life  ideal  in  the  winter.  t\  tall  symmetrical  evergreen  in  winter. 
laden  with  frozen  snow,  in  the  earl\'  rays  of  the  morning  sun  OT 
the  soft,  silvery  light  of  the  moon,  can  never  be  seen  without 
feeling  that  all  of  beauty  comes  from  the  good  God's  ereation, 
not  man's  artifice.  Many  places,  however,  are  rendered  gloomy 
ami  dark  from  their  too  free  use  in  the  foreground  and  Dear  to 
the  house.  Many  have  planted  beautiful  Norway  spruces  of 
three  feet  high  within  eight  feet  of  their  front  windows,  or  I 
feet  of  their  walks  or  roadways,  forgetting  that  in  half*  do/en  to 
a  dozen  of  years  they  will  be  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high, 
and  as  many  of  breadth  of  limb  base.  Tin.-  same  silly  thing  has 
been  done  on  lots  in  a  cemetery  of  12  by  20  feet 

In  evergreens  there  is  a  great  deal  of  beauty,  especially  in 
winter,  but  as  a  class  for  effective  scenery,  creative  of  varied 
beauty  in  months   when  deciduous  are  in  bud.  bloom  and 

foliage.     They  have  not  the  qualities  of  a  change  in  char 
from  month  to  month  of  the  deciduous  trees  and  Bhruba     '. 
can  be  grouped   beautifully  with  the  Mountain  Ash.  Euonymus 
or   Strawberry    tree,    which    bear    dusters   of    red    fruit    in    late 
autumn  and  winter. 

In  removing  and  transplanting  evergreens  the  first  statement 

that  they  should  have  ball-  of  earth  attached,  the  next    WSJ 

that  thev  eould  only  be  moved  at  certain  seasons  of  the 

but  those  who  practically  and   theoretically  understand  the 
green  tree  or  plant,  can  move  them  at  anytime  when  the  ground 


18 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


can  be  worked  freely,  except  the  months  of  July  and  August,  in 
all  our  latitudes  from  above  43°  down  to  40°,  below  that  June 
and  September  must  be  included  with  July  and  August  In 
transplanting,  it  is  only  requisite  to  remember  that  the  tree  has 
its  leaves  on,  and  that  there  is  consequently  a  constant  demand 
upon  the  roots  for  evaporation  by  the  leaves,  and  therefore  it 
will  not  do  to  permit  them  to  get  dry.  With  small  sized  trees,  a 
root  nearly  corresponding  with  the  top  is  generally  procured, 
when  the  trees  have  been  rightly  grown  in  the  nursery  and 
cutting  in  of  the  top  is  unnecessary  ;  but  in  the  case  of  removal 
of  trees  six  feet  or  more  in  height,  unless  extraordinary  care  is 
taken,  a  great  reduction  of  the  root  is  the  result,  and  then  it  is 
advisable  always  to  shorten  in  the  length  of  the  branches 
corresponding  with  the  apparent  loss  of  roots  the  tree  has 
sustained. 

The  writer  of  this  has  superintended  the  removal  of  evergreen 
trees  thirty  feet  in  height,  and  breadth  according  at  the  base. 
The  practice  has  been  to  first  mark  the  outline  of  the  lower 
branches,  then  raise  them  gently  and  carefully  and  tie  them 
points  upward  at  six  feet  above  the  ground  by  a  soft  rope  or 
strap  passed  once  around  and  fastened  to  the  main  stem  of  the 
tree  ;  then  with  rakes  and  forks  take  off  the  surface  ground 
among  the  small  fibrous  roots  to  a  depth  of  four  inches,  then 
dig  a  trench  eighteen  inches  deep  and  wide  at  the  outskirt  line 
of  the  branches  ;  this  done,  then  work  underneath  the  roots  and 
carefully  1  >osen  them  until  they  can  be  raised  and  tied  to  the 
body  of  the  tree — then  place  a  mat  underneath,  and  if  the  tree 
has  to  go  any  distance  pack  wet  moss  among  the  roots,  if  it  is 
only  to  be  moved  one-quarter  of  a  mile,  merely  sprinkling  the 
roots  and  wetting  the  mat  will  be  necessarv.  Have  the  hole  for 
its  transplanting  ready  dug  and  well  wet,  then  set  the  tree  upon 
a  little  mound  for  its  center  and  take  down  the  roots  one  by  one 
and  spread  them  as  near  to  their  natural  position  as  can  be  done, 
mingling  soil  by  pressure  of  the  lingers  outspread,  not  jammed 
down  with  the  fist  or  a  club  stick.  Avoid  all  treading  of  the 
feet,  but  with  the  hand  outspread  see  to  it  that  the  base  has  no 
vacancy  from  packed  soil  of  even  one  inch  diameter. 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING.  19 

Follow  this  with  each  course  of  roots,  having  calculated  that 
your  upper  tier  will  be  four  inches  In-low  the  level  of  the  ground 
and  your  tree  with  one  careful  watering  like  rain  —  not  inch  jets 
— and  a  mulch  of  four  inches  of  new   mown  saw- 

dust or  tanbark,  is  all   right.     Not  a  stake  is  needed     Having 
said  so  much  touching  the  evergreens,  we  shall  now  take  up  our 

CONDENSED    DESCRIPTIONS. 

American  Arbor  Vitoe, — This  is  commonly  known  as  White 
Cedar,  but  it  does  not  belong  botanically  to  that  class,  it  is  a 
hardy  evergreen,  conical,  upright,  uniform;  excellent  for  screens 
and  hedges  and  can,  by  clipping  annually,  be  grown  in  any  form. 
Small  plants  of  it,  by  judicious  yearly  pruning,  can  be  kept  at  a 
height  of  three  to  four  feet,  with  a  spread  of  thirty  feet  diam 

American  Weeping  Arbor  Vitce. — This  is  of  small,  say  half 
natural  habit  in  size,  of  a  drooping  habit ;  rare  and  beautiful. 

Arbor  Vitce — Var  Ericoides. — Is  a  dwarf  variety,  with  heath- 
like foliage;  suited  only  to  rock  work,  or  some  groups  of  dwarf 
evergreens. 

Arbor  Vitce — Hoveyi. — This  is  a  variety  of  our  common 
American  ;  more  compact  and  dwarf  in  its  habit. 

Arbor  Vita — Maeulata. — A  blotched  leaved  variety  of  the 
American  ;  only  of  value  as  a  curiosity. 

Arbor  Vitce — Plicata. — A  variety  with  a  dark  green  foliage; 
untested. 

Arbor  Vitce — Plicata  Minima. — Said  to  be  a  dwarf  of  the 
foregoing. 

Arbor  Vitce — Siberica.' — This  is  one  of  the  hardiest,  most 
perfect  in  growth  and  habit  of  the  whole  class  of  Thujas.  It 
matters  not  where  it  is  placed,  or  what  you  want  of  it ;  a 
knowledgeable  person  can  use  it  in  any  form  01  position.  There 
is  a  variety  with  variegated  foliage,  suited  to  a  novelty  tree  or 
plant  grower. 


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HAND-BOOK   OF  PRACTICAL 


Arbor  Vitoz — Tom  Thumb. — Botanically  this  has  no  distinct 
designation,  but  the  plant  is  distinct,  and  for  a  compact  symmet- 
rical grower  it  has  no  equal.  It  deserves  a  place  in  every  man's 
grounds,  and  thousands  of  them  should  be  used  in  cemeteries. 
It  originated  in  Ellwanger  &  Barry's  gardens,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Arbor  Vitce — Chinese. — Some  place  this  as  botanically  Biota, 
instead  of  Thuja.  In  many  sections  it  is  one  of  our  most 
delicate  shrub  evergreen  trees,  and  may  be  trained  to  any  form. 
It  often  browns  in  winter,  but  with  careful  clipping  in  early 
spring  it  comes  out  beautiful  with  its  clear  light  green.  We 
have  grown  it  conical,  oval,  flat  and  rounded. 

Arbor  V'dae — Compacta. — This  is  a  variety  of  the  Chinese,  but 
more  dwarf  and  compact  in  its  natural  form.     It  is  hardy. 

Arbor  Vita — Golden. — A  variety  of  the  Chinese,  with  foliage 
of  a  yellowish  hue ;  beautiful,  and  said  to  be  hardy — of  which 
we  have  doubts. 

Arbor  Vita — Pygmea. — A  very  dwarf  variety.  There  are 
many  more  of  these,  but  when  we  work  for  the  benefit  of  the 
public  we  do  not  feel  like  wasting  time  noting  novelties 
untested. 

Cypress — Cupressus  Lawsoniana. — This  is  one  of  the  most 
graceful  of  evergreen  trees.  It  is  not,  however,  fully  hardy  in 
all  locations,  but  deserves  a  place  where  some  other  evergreens 
sha'le  and  protect  it  from  the  sun  in  winter.  Like  the  Chinese 
Arbor  Vitas  it  requires  to  have  the  ends  of  some  of  the  twigs 
clipped  in  spring. 

There  are  several  other  .varieties  more  erect  and  compact 
One  Slricta  is  among  the  best.  McXabiana  has  glaneous  leaves. 
Kidkaensis  has  glossy,  dark  green  foliage,  and  is  very  beautiful- 
Thyoides  is  the  true  white  cedar,  quite  hardy.  There  are  two  or 
more  of  Japan  Cypress,  but  their  hardihood  is  not  yet  fully 
tested. 

Juniper— {Juniperus. J — All  of  this  class  are  hardy  and  valu- 
able. They  arc  of  all  forms,  from  lowest  creeper  to  tall  stately 
trees,  like  the  Red  cedar. 


LANDSCAPE     C  Akl  KN  I  M  I.  21 

Juniperus  Virginia  nn.— These  are  very  erect  dwarf  varieties, 
and  drooping,  almost  weeping. 

Libocet/ru*. — Of  this  class  there  are  but  two  varieties,  viz. : 
C/iiie7isis  and  Decurrens,  both  handsome,  but  not  hardy  at  the 
North. 

Pines. — Nearly  all  of  the  pines  are  hardy.  The  Mountain, 
(}fugh<\)  Mugho  Rolundata  and  Dwarf  White  Pine  (Strobus  Nana) 
a  v  among  the  hardest  and  best  of  dwarfs.  The  Austrian,  White, 
Norway  or  Red,  Scotch,  Corrican,  Banksian  and  Swiss  Stone 
are  perfectly  hardy.  The  live  first  named  make  large  beautiful 
trees,  each  distinct  in  color  of  foliage,  the  two  last  named 
(Banksian)   is  of  a  yellowish  cast   in   E  a  half  drooping  in 

form,  Swiss  S"one  or  Cembrian  is  of  a  light  whitish  green,  like 
unto  the  White  or  Monmouth  pine,  yet  more  compact  and  up- 
right.    Both,  this  and  Banksia  make  only  small  trees. 

The  Bhotan  (Ezcelsa)  is  a  variety  of  great  beauty,  but  it  must 
be  planted  in  dry  and  poor  ground  and  shaded  or  sheltered  from 
the  sun  in  winter  by  evergreen  or  buildings.  Salzmann's, 
Bentham's,  Heavy-wooded,  Jeffrey's  and  Lambert's  are.  all  of 
recent  introduction,  and  give  promise  of  forming  some  of  the 
most  stately  and  hardy  trees.  The  Calabrian  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  of  all,  but  it  is  very  rare.  The  Russian 
(Rigensis)  is  much  like  Bentham,  yet  distinct,  is  hardy  and 
vigorous,  more  open  than  the  Austrian;  foliage  yellowish 
green,  bright  and  clear. 

Silver  Fir — Picea. — The  American  Balsam  Fir  is  well-known, 
and  while  young  makes  fine  trees,  as  it  acquires  age,  however,  it 
should  have  the  ends  of  its  branches  clipped  yearly.  The 
variety  called  Hudson  Bay  Fir  makes  only  a  dwarf  tree.  The 
European  or  Pectinata  and  also  Webbiana  are  liable  t  i  lose  their 
leading  stems,  especially  while  young.  The  Amabiliay  Cepha- 
lonican,  Cilician,  Great  Silver,  Noble,  Nordmann's,  Pinsapo  and 
Wooly-fruited  are  among  the  more  recent  introductions  and 
worthy  of  attention. 

Spruce  Fir. — The  American  White  Spruce  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  hardy  trees,  second  class  in  size.     The  American  is 


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HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


of  a  darker  shade  in  foliage,  and  more  upright  in  its  branches. 
Both  are  valuable  as  screen  hedges,  or  dwarf  evergreen  hedges, 
as  thej  bear  the  shears  well.  Alba  Cerulea,  Excelsa  Clan- 
brasiliana,  Elegans,  Gergoryana,  Mucronata,  Parviformis,  Pygmoza, 
Canadenis  Nana,  Pumila,  Nigra,  Tortuosa  Compacta  are  all  classed 
as  dwarf  trees. 

The  Excelsa  Inverta  is  a  pendulous  variety  of  the  Norway 
Spruce.  The  commonly  well-known  Norway  Spruce  and  the 
Hemlock  Spruce  are  too  well  known  to  need  a  word.  Both  are 
of  value  as  specimen  trees,  wind  breaks  or  hedges.  There  are  a 
number  of  other  varieties,  but  none  superior  to  those  we  have 
named,  unless  it  be  the  Himalayan. 

Sequoia  Oigantea, — This  is  called  the  big  tree  of  California,  is 
majestic  in  form,  but  too  often  it  proves  unreliable  north  of  42 
latitude,  below  that  it  is  all  right,  and  situations,  soils,  with  care 
can  grow  it  at  the  North. 

The  Yew — Taxus. — This  evergreen  is  all  of  the  dwarf  form. 
There  are  rare  foliaged  varieties  and  many  very  compact,  but 
nearly,  all  of  them  brown  badly  from  winter  suns.  The  English 
(Baccata)  and  Irish  (Hibernica)  sometimes  grow  to  a  height  of  20 
to  30  feet.  The  Nana,  Stricta,  Adpressa  are  among  the  best  as 
low  shrubs,  and  Dovastonii  pendula  is  fine  as  a  weeping  variety. 


WEEPING  DECIDUOUS  TREES. 


Within  a  few  years  the  popular  taste  has  been  largely  turned 
to  the  introduction  of  drooping  trees  as  objects  of  graceful 
beauty,  harmonizing  with  the  smoothness  and  verdue  of  a  lawn, 
or  the  high  keeping  and  neatness  of  a  pleasure  garden.  Droop- 
ing trees,  like  water  fountains,  are  dangerous  in  the  hands  of 
those  who  attempt  their  use  in  the  decoration  of  grounds,  with- 
out possessing  a  considerable  knowledge  and  good  taste  in  the 
composition  of  a  landscape.  Gracefulness  and  elegance  being 
the  prominent  characteristics  of  drooping  trees,  they  are  shown 
to  the  best  advantage  either  singly  or  in  wide,  yet  tasteful 
groups,  or  lawns,  or  borders ;  where  symmetrical  art,  rather  than 
the  natural  picturesque  is  sought  to  be  embodied  as  the  leading 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


feature,   where  bold   expression    i;   desired,    they   are  entirely 
unfitted.     Placed  on  the  borders  of  -.  at  sufficient  distance 

to  enable  them  toexhibil  their  peculiar  habits  and  dove 
their  forms,  many  of  the  drooping  trees  may  be  used  effectively, 
provided  the  group  of  which  they  form  a  pari  is  composed  with 
similar  pensile,  although  not  bo  distinct  in  habits  of  foliage  or 
spray  as  exhibited  in  the  American  elm,  black  birch,  <>r  wild 
cherry.  For  planting  on  the  borders  of  ponds,  or  Btreams  of 
running  water,  or  as  symbols  of  sympathy  between  the  living 
and  the  dead  in  cemeteries,  they  are  all  valuable;  and  with 
judicious  knowledge  of  their  expansion  in  growth  to  arrange 
them  on  lots  or  in  positions  suitable  to  their  future  lives,  they 
cannot  be  too  much  used. 

VARIETIES. 

European  Weeping  Ash. — This  is  one  of  the  oldest  varieties  of 
weeping  trees  known.  Originaliy  it  was  more  extensively 
planted/than  any  other  variety,  because  of  its  rapid  growth  and 
clear,  glossy  foliage.  There  are  also  of  Weepers  the  gold  barked 
and  the  Lentiscusdeaved,  both  valuable,  but  in  sections  not 
quite  hardy. 

Weeping  Beech. — This  we  consider  the  king  of  all  the  weeping 
trees.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  grows  freely  and  rapidly  in  almost 
any  soil,  and  forms  one  of  the  most  graceful  and  picturesque, 
yet  unique  trees. 

European  Weeping  Birch. — The  cut-leaved  Weeping  Birch  is 
one  of  the  best  of  this  variety.      Among  the  new  varieties  the 
>ns pendula  and  Young's  New  Weeping  are  entirely  distinct, 
yet  of  the  most  delicate  character. 

Weeping    Cherry — Of   this    i  give    preference    to    the 

dwarf  weeping  (pumiki)  and  the  ever  flowering  (aemperflou 
Both  require  to  be  grafted  from  four  to  Bix  feet  bij 

Weeping  Cypress — Cupressus  Glyptostrohus  pendula. — This  is  a 
beautiful  weeper,  but  we  regard  il  as  not  hardy  at  the  North. 

Weeping  Elm. — Of  the  Weeping   I  re  count  the  Camper' 

down  as  the  most  persistent  drooping  di  variety.     The 


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HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


Scotch  "Weeping  has  drooping  branches  but  not  pendulous.  The 
cork  barked  is  distinct,  so  also  Hertfordshire  and  rough  leaved. 
The  small  leaved  is  only  of  value  for  the  reserve  garden  as  a 
study. 

Weeping  Euonymous. — This  is  a  variety  of  a  shrub  called  the 
Strawberry  tree  or  Burning  Bush.     It  is  a  novelty  of  value. 

Weeping  Honey  Locust. — Hardy  and  with  fine  foliage,  but  we 
should  award  it  a  place  only  in  the  reserve  grounds. 

Weeping  Larch. — If  a  tree  is  wanted  for  a  rocky  bank,  or  as  a 
grotesque  feature  at  some  conspicuous  point  nothing  can  equal 
the  Weeping  Larch,  but  for  a  symmetrical  lawn  it  is  not  suited. 

Weeping  Linden. — The  tree  that  goes  under  the  name  of 
Weeping  Linden  is  not  strictly  a  weeper.  Its  foliage  is  whitish 
underneath  and  with  age  it  has  a  half  drooping  habit. 

Weeping  Mountain  Ash. — This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
weeping  trees,  but  the  Saperda,  a  borer,  often  destroys  it  by 
girdling  it.  It  is  generally  worked  upon  the  common  Mountain 
ash  at  six  to  eight  feet  high,  and  in  four  years  its  branches  reach 
the  ground,  loaded  with  white  blooms  in  spring  and  red  berries 
in  winter. 

Weeping  Poplar. — The  variety  of  this  weeper  (grandidenta 
pendula)  is  well  adapted  to  the  back-ground  of  a  group  of 
weepers,  but  it  is  too  strong  and  bold,  except  upon  a  large  lawn 
or  back  from  a  pond  or  running  stream. 

Weeping  Sophora. — The  Sophora  Japonica  Pendula  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  weepers.  The  foliage  is  smooth,  dark  green, 
with  very  pendulous  branches  and  pinnate  leaves.  Occasionally 
trees  of  it  stand  hardy  in  our  Northern  latitude,  but  above 
•i2°  we  should  never  advise  its  planting. 

Weeping  Willows. — The  Salix  Babylonica  is  our  old  well-known 
weeping  willow.  From  long  usage  this  willow  has  come  to  be 
associated  with  either  water  or  the  sadness  of  life — in  the  one 
case,  indicative  of  a  marshy  region  or  stream  of  water ;  in  the 
other,  of  the  last  resting  place  of  friends  once  on  earth. 
Beautiful  as  it  is  in  itself,  these  very  associations  preclude  its 
introduction  into  almost  any  suburban  or  even  extended  place. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING.  25 


The  American  or  Fountain  Willow  and  the  Kilmarnock  come 
in  well  at  times  on  the  point  where  two  roads  meet  and 
eon  verge.  They  arc  also  adapted  to  borders  and  corners  of  lots 
in  cemeteries.  Two  owners  of  lots  adjoining  should  conspire 
ther  to  place  the  weeper  upon  the  joint  corner  line. 
Weeping  Thorn. — There  are  Severn]  varieties  of  "Weeping 
Thorns  ,  Craiegus)  all  of  them  pretty  and  well  suited  for  plant- 
ing on  small  lawns  or  cemetery  lots. 

DECIDUOUS  TREES. 

In  all  of  ornamental  gardening  the  deciduous  trees  take  a  first 
rank  for  the  blossoming  of  the  bud,  the  ripening  of  the  seed  or 
fruit,  the  ever  changing  of  the  foliage  gives  daily  a  variety  to 
the  whole  of  the  grounds  where  they  are  planted.  Our  work  is 
not  of  sufficient  extent  of  character  to  note  all  varieties,  unless 
we  condense  our  remarks  to  a  few  words. 

77/ e  Snowy  Maple  Leaved  Abele,  belonging  to  the  poplar 
family,  is  a  tree  of  rapid  growth,  but  with  such  a  tendency  to 
sucker  that  it  is  unworthy  of  culture. 

The  Ailanthus,  or  Flower  of  Heaven,  is  a  tree  of  rapid 
growth.  Like  others,  elm,  maple,  etc.,  it  has  two  sexes,  both  of 
which  produce'  flowers,  the  male  much  less  abundantly  than  the 
female,  and  while  the  male  suckers  freely  the  female  does  not. 
The  perfume  from  the  flower  of  the  female  is  poisonous,  while 
that  of  the  male  is  not  No  insects  trouble  these  trees,  and  they 
are  mainly  valuable  for  the  street. 

The  Ash  is  varied  in  its  forms  and  accordingly  is  suited  to 
locations.  The  flowering  Tar,  Ornus  Furopea,  Salicifolia, 
Americanus  are  among  the  best  for  lawns  or  streets.  An 
ornamental  tree  is  produced  by  grafting  the  Dwarf  Globe  headed 
mated  with  Ellwanger  &  Barry)  about  six  feet  high  on  the 
stocks  of  the  American  Ash. 

The  Beech — Fagus. — Our  American  Beech  (Fagus  Americana) 
we  rank  as  combining  in  itself  more  of  beauty,  grace  and 
magnificence  than  perhaps  any  other  of  our  forest  trees.  True, 
it  has  not  the  oak,  but  with  its  stateliness  of  upright,  spreading 


26 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


growth,  every  line  and  twig  is  one  of  graceful  ease.  Young 
trees  should  always  be  procured  with  branches  starting  from  the 
ground,  and  rarely  does  it  need  the  knife  applied  to  give  it 
regularity  and  symmetry  and  form.  A  deep,  loamy,  rather 
moist  soil  gives  it  most  vigor  and  causes  it  to  grow  to  a  large 
size.  As  a  single  lawn  tree  it  has  no  superior,  and  wherever 
room  can  be  given  for  its  full  development  it  should  be  planted. 

There  are  mady  varieties  of  the  Beech,  of  which  the  Cut 
leaved,  Crested  leaved,  Fern  leaved,  Long  leaved,  Oak  leaved 
and  Purple  leaved,  each  have  a  distinct  character.  The  Purple 
leaved  is  certainly  the  most  desirable  of  all,  except  the  native. 
It  has  rather  stronger  limbs  than  the  common  plain  variety,  and 
the  young  shoots  and  buds  are  of  a  rare  color,  while  the  foliage, 
when  young  or  half  grown,  is  of  a  reddish  purplish  tinge, 
forming  a  pleasing  and  attractive  contrast  with  the  green  of 
other  trees. 

The  Birch. — This  tree  in  its  varieties  is  adapted  to  poor  soils. 
The  lenta  and  puhesceus  are  the  most  common,  while  the  primus 
padus  is  one  of  the  largest  in  growth  and  production  of  fruit. 
One  dwarf  variety  nana  makes  a'  tree  of  only  about  five  feet 
high.  The  varieties  are  admirable  for  crowning  a  point  of 
rocky  ledge  or  grouping  with  the  Scotch  Larch  and  Hemlock  or 
"White  and  Combined  Pines. 

Butternut — Juglaus  Cineria. — Although  not  strictly  to  be 
classed  among  ornamental  trees,  yet  the  rapidity  of  growth  while 
young,  the  habit  of  early  bearing,  together  with  the  great  value 
of  its  fruit,  makes  the  Butternut  a  tree  desirable  to  plant 
wherever  a  suitable  place  can  be  found. 

Catalpa. — Syringafolia. — A  native  of  our  Southern  States,  the 
CatalLa  or  Shavasion  is  one  of  our  most  showy  as  well  as  rapid 
growing  trees.  It  is  not  quite  hardy  in  our  Northern  States, 
except  where  it  has  protection  from  evergreen  trees.  It  is  a  tree 
that  groups  well  with  the  Scotch,  Austrian  and  yellow  pines.  A 
light,  dry  soil  is  best  suited  to  its  growth. 

Cherry. — The  Wild  or  Bird  Cherry  has  several  varieties 
popularly  recognized,   but    only   that   classed  by  botanist   as 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING.  27 

Virginiana  is  desirable  for  parks  or  private  grounds.  The  tree 
grows  rapidly,  and  while  its  slender  branches  droop,  its  form  is 
upright,  spreading,  and  when  in  good  soil  attaining  a  large  size. 
Like  the  birch  graceful  and  pliant,  swaying  to  every  breeze  its 
glossy  foliage  in  the  summer  season,  and  its  delicate,  long, 
slender,  purplish  red  spray  in  the  winter,  makes  the  Bird  Cherry 
a  very  desirable  tree  for  many  situations.  As  a  street  tree  it  is 
unsuitable,  and  for  small  grounds  it  grows  too  large.  Birds 
seem  attracted  to  it,  and  nest  in  it  perhaps  more  than  in  any 
other  tree. 

Perfumed  or  Mahaleb  Cherry. — This  variety  makes  a  small, 
round-headed  tree  of  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  the 
same  iu  breadth.  It  is  of  great  beauty  and  value  as  an  orna- 
mental tree.  It  has  a  strong,  yet  agreeable  perfume  when  in 
flower,  and  bears  an  abundance  of  fruit.  This  fruit  has  its  seeds 
and  can  be  made  profitable,  as  it  is  a  variety  upon  which  our 
large  sweet  cherries  are  worked  as  dwarfs,  and  the  roots  or 
plants  of  one  }-ear  old  are  always  in  demand.  Its  abundant 
spray,  pale  green  beads,  which  it  holds  until  very  late  in 
autumn,  makes  for  it  a  strong  claim  as  a  foreground  trees 
whether  evergreen  or  deciduous. 

Double  Flowering  Cherry  is  a  variety  of  the  Heart  Cherries,  has 
a  vigorous  growth,  and,  in  season,  a  profusion  of  double  white 
flowers  like  miniature  roses.  It  is  a  valuable  tree  for  roadsides 
in  the  country,  parks,  or  extensive  private  grounds. 

Deciduous  Cypress. — Taxodiurn  Distichia. — Although  a  native 
of  our  Southern  States,  the  Deciduous  Cypress  proves  hardy  in 
our  Middle  States  and  also  a  great  portion  of  our  Northern 
States.  In  foliage  it  is  different  from  all  other  trees,  with  a 
resemblance  to  the  Hemlock ;  it  has  a  light,  bright  green,  com- 
bined with  an  airy  lightness  of  great  elegance,  pleasing  and 
attractive  to  all.  In  low,  wet  grounds,  as  in  its  native  habitat, 
it  grows  to  a  large  tree,  but  planted  in  our  common  garden  soils, 
it  forms  a  tree  of  only  medium  height,  suy  twenty  to  thirty  feet 
As  it  pushes  its  roots  deep  into  the  ground,  it  is  always  best  to 
transplant  young  trees.     Grouped  with  hemlocks  and  firs,  its 


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HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


light  green  foliage  and  airiness  contrast   beautifully  -with  the 
more  sombre  shades  of  evergreen. 

Dogwood — Cornus.  —  The  common  Dogwood  (Cornus  Florida) 
abounds  in  all  sections  of  the  Middle  States.  It  docs  not  often 
grow  over  twenty  feet  high,  but  its  profusion  of  white  flowers  in 
early  spring  have  drawn  the  attention  of  ornamental  planters  to 
it,  until  it  is  now  sought  for  and  planted  by  every  landscapist  of 
any  taste.  As  a  small  tree  to  skirt  the  boundaries  of  evergreen 
groups,  peeping  out  from  among  them  with  its  snowy  flowers  in 
spring,  and  its  brilliant  red  berries  and  dark  red  foliage  in 
autumn,  few  can  equal  it  There  is  a  variegated-leaved  variety, 
its  leaves  blotched  with  white,  that  when  the  plant  is  to  stand 
with  other  deciduous  trees,  is  better  because  of  the  greater 
attractions  created  by  its  foliage,  and  there  is  also  one,  the 
Sanguinea.  with  its  young  shoots  of  a  bright  scarlet  color,  that  is 
ornamental  whether  planted  by  itself  or  against  a  relief  of 
evergreens. 

Elm — From  the  abundance  of  Elms,  everywhere  native,  over 
our  country,  and  the  almost  perfect  certainty  of  their  living  after 
transplanting  with  ordinary  care,  it  has  become  one  of  our  most 
popular  street  and  park  trees.  Gracefully  elegant,  by  reason  of 
its  long  sweeping  branches  and  its  loose  pendant^  its  tufted 
masses  of  foliage,  vigorous  and  almost  lofty  in  its  growth,  and 
adapting  itself  as  it  were  to  all  soils,  wet  or  dryr  clay  or  sand, 
the  American  White  Elm  has  no  superior  as  a  street  or  park 
tree — where  it  can  be  planted  so  as  to  give  it  room  for  develop- 
ment, but  when  planted,  as  it  too  often  is,  in  small  grounds  or 
on  the  sides  of  narrow  streets  or  avenues,  where  its  limbs  have 
to  be  lopped  off  or  trimmed  up,  it  is  unsuited,  because  in  so 
doing  its  beauty  is  destroyed  and  the  owner  has  only  a  long  bare 
trunk  where  he  might  have  had,  with  some  other  variet}T,  a  mass 
of  foliage  and  beauty.  Th<5  Red  Elm  (Feilca)  is  more  upright  in 
its  growth  than  the  White  and  does  not  attain  as  gteat  size,  but 
it  is  not  as  desirable  for  planting  in  positions  too  confined  for  the 
White,  as  the  European  (Camputris)  or  Scotch  (Montana)  Elms. 
The  European  or  English  Elm  forms  a  lofty  tree  of  less  spread- 
ing habit  than  our  White  Elm,  and  in  retaining  its  foliage  later 


LANDB0AP1     GAKl  KNlN'i.  29 


extends,  apparently,  our  season  of  rammer.     Ai  a  shade  tree  it 
is  more  compact  and  dense  in  its  foliage,  and  therefore  i 
raltable  in  the  formation  of  masses  or  groups.     A  great  number 

of  varieties  of  this  species  are  grown  from  seel,  ami   the  planter 

can  frequently  select  a  dozen  trees  of  different  nabiti  among 
those  offered  by  the  dealer  as  one.  Nurserymen  offer  over 
twenty-five  as  distinct  varieties.  A  few  of  them  are  <>f  due 
credit  and  value  as  novelties,  viz.:  The  Purple-leaved,  Slender 
Twigged,  Gerroteddeaved  and  Cork  Barked  (Subaroaa.)  It  is 
vigorous  and  hardy,  foliage  rich  and  dark,  hanging  late  in 
autumn,  and  its  branches  and  twigs  covered  with  a  fun- 
growth  of  a  cork  like  substance,  so  singular  and  curious  as  to 
attract  attention  and  admiration.  The  foliage  of  all  the  elms  in 
autumn  is  of  a  yellow  tint 

The  Ginko — Salisburia. — A  tree  with  foliage  unlike  any  other. 
In  form  it  has  generally  a  neat,  regular,  open,  conical  head ;  its 
foliage  on  long  petioles,  giving  it  an  airy  and  unique  appearance 
that  harmonizes  well  with  buildings,  but  does  not  so  well  with 
masses  or  groups  of  other  trees. 

Horse  Chestnut. — Esculus. — For  bordering  the  lines  of  straight 
avenues  and  for  public  squares  or  town  plots,  where  regularity 
and  symmetry  are  desired  rather  than  grandeur,  for  single  lawn 
trees  and  for  limited  use  in  grouping  with  the  Scotch  and 
Austrian  Pines,  the  Horse  Chestnut  is  one  of  our  best  and  most 
ornamental  trees.  The  old  white  flowering  has  now  given  place 
to  one  of  the  same  habit  in  growth,  but  producing  double  white 
flowers.  Where  the  ground  is  limited,  it  is  well  to  have  the 
Yariegateddcaved,  Double  Red  Flowering  and  other  rar<- 
new  varieties  engrafted  upon  the  Double  White  Flowering. 
The  Dwarf  Double  Flowering  {Nana  Fl  Pi)  and  of  variety 
Pavia,  the  Camea  Superba,  Camea  J'ubescens,  Purpurea,  Rubra, 
Flava,  etc.,  come  into  use  along  a  line  or  as  a  group  at  a  turn  of 
the  road.  The  growth  of  these  is  in  no  case  of  value,  other  than 
a  low  group  of  broad  leaved  shrubs. 

Hickory.  — Carya.— The  difficulty  of  transplanting  the  Hickory 
or  White  Walnut  has  kept  it  from  free  use.     The  net  of  practice 


30 


HAND-BOOK   OF  PRACTICAL 


in  the  transplanting  of  this  tree  freely  and  safely  is  to  dig  a 
trench  around  a  two  years'  seedling  of  one  foot  in  depth,  two 
feet  diameter,  and  cut  off  every  root,  so  that  the  whole  can  be 
raised  like  a  ball.  This  course  will  make  the  hickory  the  next 
year  as  safe  to  transplant  as  any  other  tree. 

Linden. — Tilia. — Under  the  name  of  Bass  wood  our  American 
Linden  or  Lime  tree  is  well  known.  Of  rapid  growth,  easily 
transplanted,  full  and  flowing  in  its  outline  or  form,  its  foliage 
broad  and  of  a  rich  green,  few  of  our  native  or  exotic  trees  have 
more  to  recommend  them  than  the  Linden.  It  prefers  and 
grows  more  vigorously  in  a  light  and  rich  deep  soil,  but  grows 
well  in  even  a  poor  sand  or  clay  soil,  provided  it  is  not  wet 
Its  regular,  uniform,  but  flowing  form,  adapts  it  well  to  planting 
in  grounds  of  the  graceful  school  in  composition,  and  also  to 
avenues,  streets  and  public  parks.  There  are  a  number  of 
varieties,  the  best  of  which,  we  think,  is  the  Alba  or  White 
Leaved  Linden,  which  has  Aery  broad  foliage,  deep  green  on  the 
upper  side  and  nearly  white  underneath,  so  that  every  breeze 
that  rustles  among  it  gives  to  it  an  airy  and  beautiful  appear- 
ance. The  European  Linden  has  smaller  leaves  than  our 
American,  and  is  perhaps  more  regular  in  form,  and  there  are 
varieties  of  it — one  with  the  young  shoots  quite  red  and  one 
with  them  yellow — that  are  extremely  ornamental  in  winter,  the 
red  especially,  when  grouped  with  evergreens,  forming 
conspicuous  lines.  There  are  also  fancy  varieties  as  the  Fern- 
leaved.  Grape-leaved,  etc.,  that  are  curious  and  pretty,  and  may 
be  worked  on  one  of  the  Red  Twigged  European. 

Locust. — Robinia. — We  do  not  regard  the  Locust  {Var 
Robinia)  as  of  much  value  for  planting  on  roadsides,  in  parks  or 
private  grounds.  The  best  way  to  use  the  Spreading  (Horizon- 
talis),  the  Crisp-leaved  (Crispa),  the  Rose  Flowered  (Viscsa),  etc., 
is  to  graft  them  upon  the  Iloney  Locust  (Gleditschia  Triacanthos). 
This  latter,  the  Iloney  Locust,  is  a  tree  that  does  not  sucker, 
rarely  if  ever  breaking  under  the  strongest  gales  of  wind, 
assumees  to  itself  the  privilege  of  growing  in  many  shapes,  from 
that  of  a  tall,  branching  and  lofty  character,  to  one  of  almost 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING.  31 

horizontal  form.  In  foliage  it  is  light  and  open,  feathery,  and 
together  with  its  wood  Btudded  with  long,  pointed  thorns,  and 
seed  pods  of  five  or  six  indies  in  length,  which  hang  on  all 
winter,  create  for  it  a  tree  very  desirable  in  the  composition  of 
groups,  and  also  for  roadsides  or  streets,  where  only  a  partial, 
not  deep  shade  is  desirable. 

Larch. —  Larix — The  European  Larch  is  a  tree  almost 
indispensible  in  ornamental  planting  of  grounds.  Seemingly 
indifferent  as  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  it  grows  with  surprising 
rapidity  in  thin,  poor,  light  sands,  in  wet,  boggy  loams,  in  high 
rocky  knolls,  or  in  rich  garden  loam.  It  should,  however,  be 
sparingly  planted  in  grounds  where  the  graceful,  rather  than  the 
picturesque,  is  designed  to  be  created.  The  European  Larcb, 
when  the  tree  is  so  planted  that  it  can  plainly  be  seen,  is  very 
beautiful  with  its  bright  pink  flowers  early  in  spring. 

Magnolia. — To  this  family,  many  varieties  of  which  are  the 
pride  of  our  Southern  States,  too  little  attention  is  given  by  the 
majority  of  tree  planters  ;  whether  it  is  that  good  plants  are 
difficult  to  be  obtained,  or  whether  it  is  because  the  trees  arc 
rather  sensitive  and  unwilling  to  be  carelessly  and  negligently 
handled  when  transplanting,  very  few  planters  make  room  for 
them  on  their  lists  or  in  their  grounds,  but  how  any  landscapist 
can  form  an  extensive  group  of  evergreens  and  deciduous  trees 
without  using  Magnolias,  is  beyond  our  comprehension.  In  our 
experience  we  have  found  no  difficulty  when  transplanting, 
provided  we  kept  the  roots  from  cold,  drying  winds  or  clear, 
burning  suns ;  exposure  to  either  of  which,  by  reason  of  their 
soft,  spongy  texture,  is  injurious  and  often  destructive  of  life. 
Of  the  varieties  all  are  beautiful,  but  some  are  not  perfectly 
hardy  in  the  Northern  States.  A  sandy,  loamy  soil  suits  them 
best,  but  if  it  is  strictly  dry  the  trees  of  some  varieties,  as 
Macropliylla,  etc.,  when  grown  on  their  own  roots,  are  liable  to 
die  out  in  from  five  to  ten  years.  Any  soil  containing  lime  is 
injurious  to  the  Magnolia.  We  prefer  to  make  our  soil,  when 
not  naturally  suited,  by  digging  a  place  three  to  four  feet  deep 
and  eight  to  ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  fill  it  with  light,  rich,  fresh 


32  HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


top  soil  drawn  from  the  woods.  The  Magnolia  Acuminata,  or 
Cucumber  Tree,  as  it  is  frequently  called,  is  very  upright  and 
regular,  almost  cone-like  in  form,  and  for  backgrounds  or  the 
center  of  groups  one  of  the  most  desirable  of  all  deciduous  trees. 
It  is  the  best  of  all  as  a  stock  to  engraft  any  and  all  varieties 
upon  it.  The  Magnolia  Macrophijlla,  Cordata,  Auriculata, 
Conspicua,  Soulangea,  Longifolia,  Gordoniana,  Thompsoniana, 
Nbrbertiana,  Speciosa,  Superba,  Lenna  and  Tripetela  are  all 
superior  when  worked  on  the  Acuminata.  The  Olanca  Purpurea 
and  Gracilis  are  of  small  growth  on  their  own  roots,  and  used 
mainly  as  the  foreground  of  groups. 

Maple. — Acer. — All  the  Maples  are  good  as  shade  trees  for 
lawn  or  roadside,  but  among  them  the  Eubrum,  Red  Flowering, 
or,  as  generally  termed,  Scarlet  Maple  is  most  to  be  prized.  Its 
red  flowers  and  leaves  in  early  spring  or  beginning  of  summer, 
its  brilliant  shades  of  red  foliage  in  autumn,  taken  in  connection 
with  its  rapid  growth  and  upright,  spreading  form,  render  it  one 
of  the  most  ornamental  of  hardy  trees.  It  may  not  be  quite  as 
rapid  in  growth  as  the  Silver-leaved  (Dasycarpum),  but  is  more 
upright  and  its  branches  less  liable  to  be  broken  by  heavy 
winds.  The  Silver-leaved  is,  however,  a  valuable  variety,  and 
where  partially  sheltered  or  where  it  can  have  an  opportunity  to 
develop  itself,  it  is  one  of  the  most  graceful  as  well  as  lofty  of 
the  species.  As  the  trees  are  all  grown  from  seeds,  there  is  great 
variet}'  of  habit  among  them,  some  having  almost  as  much  of  a 
drooping  habit  as  the  Willow,  others  of  a  spreading,  open  habit 
similar  to  American  White  Elm.  For  light  sandy  soils  the  Red 
and  Silver-leaved  are  among  the  best,  other  varieties  in  light 
soils  make  little  progress  after  a  few  years.  The  Sugar  Maple 
( ' Saccharinum)  makes  one  of  the  most  compact  and  regular  of 
round  headed  trees,  forming  a  dense  shade.  It  is,  however,  a 
a  slow  grower,  and  should  be  planted  only  in  rich,  deep,  well 
drained  soils.  The  Moosewood  or  Striped-barked  Maple  is  a 
small  growing  variety,  so  also  the  Campestris,  Dissectum, 
Laciniata,  Negundo  Crispa.  The  Sycamore  Maple  (Pseudo 
Platanus)  is  a  stately,  rapid  growing  tree,  with  broad  foliage  of 
a  rich  green.     In  the  autumn  its  foliage  becomes  a  rich  golden 


LAVD80API   < ;  a  l :  I » K  N 

yellow.     The  Norway  Maple  {Pbttmnot 

variety.      It  is  often  mistaken  for   the  Sycamore   Maple,  bat  it  is 
•  upright,  nml  does  not  make  bo  large  o  Thia  with 

Oampeslrit  i*.rc  admirably  adapted  to  small  grounda 

The  MaerophyVa     ■  L  i   ;•  Leased  ii  one  ol  the  aaest  of  upright 
growth  ami  gi  it \ .  and  although  inteodnoed  many  yean 

uiro  it  i.>  vet  little  known.     There  are  numerous  fancy  varii 
>  n-h  >lor,   Variegated4eavadt  <  ad,  Pnrple-leaTed, 

all  of  which  are  carious  and  desirable  in  ground- 
extent,  but  in  placea  wnere  a  limited  number  only  eta  hare 
■  the  Purple  leaved  is  the  one  particularly  desirable,  fa 
3  are  purplish  underneath  and  pale  green  above  when  fully 
expanded,  and  at  midsummer  and  thereafter  until  the  full  of  tin- 
leaves,  every  breeze  that  ruffles  ami  disturbs  them,  produi  i 
singular  ami  pleasing  effect  in  contrast  with  the  foliage  >>f  other 
varieties.  The  Ash-leaved  Maple  or  Box  Elder  Negundo 
AVoxj  is  a  very  rapid  growing  variety,  of  great  beauty 

from  it.-  peculiar  formed  Leaves  and  its  pale  green,  smooth  young 

It  makes   a  large   tree  when  grown   in  a  deep.  rich,  moist 

but  in  a  light  sandy  loam  org I  garden  soil,  it  forma  a 

medium  size,  which  from  its  color  of  young  wood  in 
winter  i<  exceedingly  attractive  and  pleasing.  It  groups 
admirably  with  Pi 

Mulberry. — Morns. — Although  not  a  tree  of  the  highest  type 

ty,    vet    the    native    Mulberry     is    not    inelegant,    and 

wherever   it  can   be    [  Uy,   the  great  value  of  its 

fruit  adds  much  to  recommend  its  adoption  in  forming  groups  of 

deciduous  tre  I  harmonizes  well  with  the  Linden,  Catalpa, 

and  some  Othi  und  heads  and  broad  foliage  iriety 

now  well  known        D  Bverbemring  is  a  hardy  as  any, 

luge  ami  liin-  with  the   addition  of  blossoming 

and  ripening  a  long  time  in  ion.     A   rich,  deep,  loamy 

well  drained,  suite  it  best,  and  in  the  northern  w 
the  Union  i1  be  sheltered  from 

In  the   Northern   States  it  is  unfitted   for  a  park 

trees,  but  in  the  Southern  and  Middle  -  ©to  the  .\faru*  and 


34  HAND-BOOK    OF   PRACTICAL 

Broussonetia  are  valuable  trees  for  such  uses. 

Mountain  Ash. — Pyrus. — Among  professional  as  well  as 
amateur  planters,  the  European  Mountain  Ash  is  a  deserved  and 
general  favorite.  Its  white  flowers  in  the  month  of  May, 
profusely  spread  out  over  its  surface  in  thick,  flat  clusters, 
followed  by  bunches  of  round  scarlet  berries  in  autumn,  and 
which  if  not  destroyed  or  eaten  by  birds  often  hang  on  a  great 
part  of  winter,  making  the  tree  highly  ornamental  when  planted 
by  itself,  and  still  more  so  when  it  is  the  foreground  of  a  cluster 
of  Spruces  or  Pines.  It  does  not  grow  of  sufficient  size  for  a 
street  or  park  tree,  but  for  small  grounds,  narrow  roads  and 
parks  in  cemeteries  it  is  admirably  adapted.  It  may  be,  and 
usually  is,  grown  with  a  single  stem  with  its  branches  thrown 
out  at  three  or  four  feet  from  the  ground,  but  on  lawns  or  grass 
plots,  and  as  connected  with  evergreens,  it  is  much  handsomer  if 
permitted  to  throw  out  a  number  of  stems  directly  from  the 
crown.  The  American  variety  does  not  make  quite  as  large  a 
tree  as  the  European,  but  it  is  more  abundant  in  its  flowers  and 
fruits.  The  Sorb  or  Service  tree  (Pyrus  Domestical),  and  the 
White  Beam  (Pyrus  Yestita),  the  Pyrus  Hybrida,  and  the  Pyrus 
Quercifolia,  with  a  number  of  dwarf  and  variegated  foliaged 
varieties,  are  all  of  value. 

Oak. — Quercus. — The  Oak  is  a  tree  of  song  and  tradition,  but 
the  difficulty  of  transplanting  it  after  it  has  acquired  a  suitable 
size  for  position.  Downing  says  of  it  that  "to  arrive  at  its 
highest  perfection,  ample  space  on  every  side  must  be  allowed," 
and  where  such  position  can  be  given  it  in  public  or  private 
grounds  we  should  plant  it ;  but  in  small  suburban  and  village 
home  grounds  there  are  no  such  places,  and  their  owners  must 
be  content  with  trees  of  a  less  historical  or  poetical  interest.  Of 
the  varieties  most  ornamental,  we  enumerate  the  Eock  Chestnut 
Oak  (Quercus  Prinus  Monticola),  Chestnut  White  Oak  ( Q. 
Prinus  Palustris),  the  Yellow  Oak  ( Q.  Prinus  Acuminata),  the 
Pin  Oak  ( Q.  Palustris),  the  Willow  Oak  (Q.  Phellos),  the  Over- 
cup  White  Oak  ( Q.  Macrocarpa),  the  Scarlet  Oak  ( Q.  Coccinca), 
and  English  Oak  (  Q.  Pobur).     The  Live  Oak  (Q.  Virens)  of  the 


LANDSCAPE     GAKI'KNINti.  36 

South  is  beautiful  and  can  be  grown  as  a  park  tree  but  it  will 
not  endure  the  climate  of  the  Northern  States.  The  Cork  Oak 
(Q.    Suber)   is   a   very   interesting   and   curious   tree.      If  the 

proprietor  of  a  place  has  a  desire  for  Oaks,  our  advice  is  to 
prepare  soil  deep  and  rich,  plant  the  acorns,  staking  around  to 
prevent  injury  t<>  the  young  plant. 

Oaage  <~h-an-j>-.  -Madura. — This  plant  or  tree  is  generally 
grown  for  the  purpose  of  forming  hedges,  but  when  grown 
singly  it  makes  a  tree  of  medium  size,  with  a  regular  round 
head,  covered  with  clean  glossy  foliage  and  rich  golden  fruit,  in 
appearanee  resembling  the  orange  of  commerce  It  is  admirably 
suited  as  a  lawn  tree  for  small  plots  and  for  grouping  with 
other  round  headed  deciduous  trees  of  larger  growth.  In  this 
latter  position  it  should  always  be  on  the  outside  of  tin* -roup. 
It  is  a  tree  well  suited  for  planting  on  the  narrow  avenues  of 
cemeteries,  and  for  bold,  rugged  fronts  of  rocky  banks.  Upon 
lawns  of  large  extent  an  elegant  monster  shrub  tree  can  be 
created  from  the  Osage  Orange  by  annually  heading  it  back 
near  to  the  ground  until  it  is  induced  to  send  up  a  dozen  leading 
stems  instead  of  one  ;  these  again,  as  they  grow,  want  heading 
back  from  year  to  year,  until  the  plant  becomes  a  gigantic  bush 
Father  than  a  tree. 

Poplar. — Populus.  —  Many  of  the  Poplars  are  valuable  trees  in 
the  decoration  of  scenery,  but  their  use  must  be  with  moderation. 
Thev  are  all  of  rapid  growth  and  easily  transplanted.  The 
Lombard}  Poplar  (Populus  Dilitata)  may  often  be  introduced 
with  great  effect,  and  again,  two  <u-  three  trees  of  it  planted 
directly  in  the  rear  of  a  building  furnish  a  relief  and  back- 
ground, adding  greatly  to  appearanee  as  a  picture.  When  distant 
views  are  desired,  permission  to  plant  one  or  two  Lombardy 
Poplars  at  or  near  the  point  will  serve  to  attract  the  eye,  and  in 
themselves  add  an  air  of  admiration  to  the  scene.  It  should 
never  be  planted  as  a  foreground  tree.  The  Balsam  Poplar 
(Bahamifera)  and  the  Balm  of  Gilead  Poplar  (Candkans)  very 
much  resemble  each  other  in  their  rapid  growth  and  spreading 
habit,   but  their  foliage  is  entirely  distinct ;  the  former  having 


36  HAND-BOOK    OF   PRACTICAL 

lanceolate  oval  leaves,  while  the  latter  has  very  large,  broad, 
heart-shaped  foliage,  and  is  much  the  more  desirable.  Both  are 
good  for  roadside  trees  or  bro::d  avenues,  and  their  use  in  filling 
up  low  grounds  or  bordering  streams  of  water  is  always 
satisfactory.  As  a  background  tree,  covering  and  screening 
barns  or  other  farm  buildings,  the  Balm  of  Gilead  is  very 
effective.  The  Silver  Poplar  ( Ahelc)  is  a  tree  remarkable  for  its 
silvery  white  underside  of  foliage.  It  was  once  pretty  generally 
planted  in  lawns  and  groups,  but  its  disposition  to  sucker  makes 
it  objectionable.  As  a  tree  to  make  conspicuous  some  particular 
high  point,  or  where  possible,  to  form  the  foreground  of  a  group 
of  dark  firs,  it  is  desirable  and  effective.  All  the  Poplars  bear 
the  smoke  and  dust  of  cities  with  great  indifference,  and  where 
pavements  will  serve  to  keep  down  the  suckers,  they  are  desir- 
able because  of  their  extremely  rapid  growth,  exceeding  perhaps 
that  of  any  other  tree. 

Pepperidge. — Xyssa. — The  Sour  Gum  or  Pepperidge  tree  is 
generally,  when  wild,  found  growing  in  moist  or  wet  land,  but  it 
will  thrive  in  any  good  deep  soil.  The  tree,  from  its  dark  green, 
glossy  foliage  in  summer  and  the  brilliant  fiery  tinge  which  it 
takes  on  when  ripening  its  leaves,  is  extremely  valuable  for 
forming  groups  in  the  picturesque  style.  A  single  tree  of^it 
even,  standing  at  some  distance  from  the  house  and  where-  its 
brilliant  autumn  tints  can  be  readily  seen,  often  forms  for  weeks 
a  feature  of  beauty  surpassing  that  of  any  other  on  the  place. 

Persimmon. — Diospyrus. — The  Persimmon  or  Virginia  Date 
Plum  makes  an  open,  irregular,  half  round-headed,  rather  erect 
tree  of  pleasing  character  and  of  medium  size,  that  fits  it  well  for 
grounds  of  limited  extent.  It  groups  well  with  the  English 
Elm,  the  Bird  Cherry  and  others,  and.  when  the  value  of  its  fruit 
I  is  regarded,  deserves  a  place  in  almost  all  grounds.  In  the 
|  southern  sections  of  Illinois,  Missouri,  etc.,  there  are  varieties 
that  ripen  their  fruits  long  before  frosts,  but  the  wild  trees  of  its 
northern  limits  generally  produce  an  austere  fruit,  quite 
uneatable  until  after  being  mellowed  by  frost.  It  is  a  good  tree 
for  planting  in  cemeteries,  and  for  rocky  positions  where  a  light, 
i'iry  character  is  desired  to  be  retained. 


LANDSCAPE    GAK1  KN  [KG. 


37 


Paulownia.—Imperialu. — One  of   the  Qnest  of  broad  leaved 
,  and  in  latitudes  south  of  41°  it  produces  a  profusion  of 
purplish  lilac  flowers.     N<>rth  of  41°  the  tn-e  is  hardy,  but  the 
•     :  destroyed  by  cold. 

rua. — Strange  as  it  may  seem   this   beautiful, 

md-clasa  growth  of  tree  is  rarely  to  be  found  in  the 

nurseries,  and  he  who  wants  it  must  go  to  the  woods  and  dig  for 

himself  small    plants.      As  an   open    foreground    tree  for  group-, 

glossy,  deep  green  foliage  of  the  Sassafras  and   its   irregular 

swaying  branches  make  it  especially  desirable. 

Tulip  Tree. — Liriodendron. — The  Tulip  or  Whitewood   is  one 

of  t'.ie  most  Jbeautiful  and  stately  of  our  native  trees.  It  is  a 
rapid  grower,  erect,  yet  partially  spreading,  forming  a  regular, 
even,  conically  round  head,  with  a  large,  broad,  rieh,  glossy  leaf 
and  smooth,  clean  bark.  Like  the  Magnolias,  its  roots  are  solt 
and  do  not  bear  exposure  to  dry  winds  or  sun  when  trans- 
iting, and  the  planter  must  use  care  and  attention  in  their 
ivaL  For  avenues,  for  public  or  private  parks,  for  single 
trees  upon  lawns,  and  especially  for  shade  near  the  house,  there 
is  no  tree  its  superior.  In  the  month  of  June  its  profusion  of 
large  tulip-like  flowers  give  it  a  richness  and  beauty  all  unlike 
that  of  any  other  tree,  and  to  our  view  only  equalled  by  some  of 
the  Magnolias.  It  requires  a  dry  and  deep  rieh  soil  in  order  to 
develop  its  greatest  beauty,  but  it  will  thrive  in  any  good  loam 
where  there  is  a  perfect  drainage. 

ThoDi.s. —  Cratagus. — Of    these    second    class     trees.    Btrictly 

shrubs,  there  are  many  varieties  beautiful  in  flower  and  varied  in 

foliage.     They  are  of  little  value  except  when  used  in  a  hedge, 

and   here   unfortunately   the   pruning  seems   in   a  few  years  to 

iy  their  vitality  and  they  die  out 

Walnut— Juglans.  —  Under  the  name  of  Walnut  we  have  the 

European    Walnut  and  the  Black  "Walnut  of  our  forests.     The 

ID  Walnut  is   not  hardy  in  our  Northern   Stab  -       A-  an 

ornamental  tree  South  it  makes  a  pleasing  variety,  because  of 

contrast  in   its  foliage  with  that  of  most  other  trees,     The 

Blaek  Walnut — hirjlana  Nigra— makes  a  very  rapid  growth  and 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


becomes  a  very  large  and  spreading  tree.     It  is  unsuited  to  any 
but  extensive  grounds  or  farms. 

~\Yillow. — Salix. — There  is  a  large  variety  of  Willows,  all  of 
narrow  leaves, and  slender  branches  or  spray.  Aside  from  the 
Weepers  or  Drooping,  the  Golden-barked  is  the  only  one  of 
value. 


ORNAMENTAL   DECIDUOUS  SHRUBS. 

In  all  grounds  a  well  appointed  and  arranged  shrubbery  is  a 
most  effective  feature,  and  in  grounds  of  small  extent,  such  as 
flie  front  gardens  of  suburban  city  lots,  the  use  of  shrubs  or 
trees  of  small  growth  is  more  to  be  commended  than  those  of 
a  towering  or  large  spreading  habit.  Just  enough  of  large  trees 
should  be  planted  to  form  necessary  shade,  and  then  the  effect 
and  general  impression  of  beauty  be  created  bjT  the  planting  of 
deciduous  trees  and  evergreen  shrubs.  One  of  the  most 
important  things  in  planting  shrubs  is  to  attend  particularly  to 
the  shades  of  green  in  foliage  ;  another  is  an  understanding  of 
soils  in  which  they  will  grow  and  develop  themselves  most 
luxuriantly.  Even  the  effect  of  perspective  may  be  considerably 
increased  by  the  proper  arrangement  of  trees.  Shrubs  whose 
leaves  arc  of  a  gray  or  bluish  tint,  when  seen  over  or  between 
shrubs  of  a  yellowish  or  bright  green,  will  seem  thrown  into  the 
distance.  Those,  again,  with  small  or  tremulous  leaves  should 
be  set  over  or  before  those*  with  large,  broad,  fixed  foliage. 
Where  the  situation  will  permit,  three  or  five  Lilacs,  or 
Weigelas,  or  Tree  Honey-suckles,  or  Japan  Quince  with 
Forsythias  and  Deutzia  Scabra,  as  a  foreground,  may  be 
grouped  together. 

"A  shrubbery,"  says  Mr.  Phillips,  "should  be  planted  as  a 
court  or  stage  dress  is  ornamented,  for  general  effect  and  not  for 
particular  and  partial  impression.  Boldness  of  design,  which 
seems  to  be  more  the  offspring  of  Nature  and  chance  than  of  art 


LANDSCAPE    GAKI>KMN<i.  39 

and  study,  should  be  attempted,  but  though  boldness  is  what 

the  planter  should  aspire  to,  all  harshness  or  too  great  abrupt- 

must  be  avoided  by  a  judicious  mixture  of  plants  whose 

color-;  will  Mend  easily  with  one  another."  The  mosl  beautiful 
of  shrubs   should    <».'   course    he  planted    in  the  most  Conspicuous 

I  s,  and  the  whole  with  respect  to  evergreens  so  arranged  as 
to  contribute  in  making  bright  the  gloom  of  winter,  in  reducing 
and  softening  the  glare  of  summer,  and  assist  in  lengthening  the 
season  by  their  early  flowers  in  spring  and  their  ripening  berries 

in  autumn. 


Condensed  Descriptions  of  Ornamental  Shrubs. 

It  is  impossible  for  us  to  give  full  descriptions  of  all  the 
ornamental  shrubs  within  the  limits  of  what  we  design  to  make 
a  plain,  cheap,  practical  work.  We  must  therefore  make 
short  descriptions  of  the  leading  shrubs,  free  of  botanical  names. 
as  folio* 

The  Rose  Acacia  is  an  old  shrub,  with  rose  colored  flowers  in 
July. 

The  Althea  is  a  shrub  from  four  to  six  feet  in  height,  and 
should  be  trimmed  every  spring. 

The  Alder  has  varieties,  but  its  beauty  is  only  developed  in 
low.  damp  grounds. 

The  Almond  is  a  dwarf  shrub,  with  flowers  like  double  roses  of 
varied  colors. 

The  Azalea  is  known  as  the  Swamp  Pink  or  Swamp  Honey- 
suckle,  and  is  generally  planted  with  Kalmiaa  and  Rhodo- 
dendrons. 

The  Amorpha  is  a  shrub  with  long  spikes  of  blue  or  purple 

Rowers.     There  are  several   varieties,   but  all   like  other  shrubs 
need  severe  annual  pruning. 

The  Amelanc/ti' r,  or  more  generally  known  as  Shad  Hush,  in 
early  spring  has  white  flowers  covering  the  whi 


40  HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 

The  June  Berry,  a  variety  of  the  above,  with  white  flowers  in 
pendulous  racemes.  A  variety  of  this  has  wood  of  a  dark  red 
or  blood  color. 

The  Barberry  has  many  varieties  which  may  be  grouped 
together  with  good  effect 

The  Buckthorn  is  one  of  the  best  of  hedge  plants,  and  quite 
ornamental  when  planted  singly. 

The  Buffalo  Tree  is  a  sexual  plant,  ornamental,  with  silvery 
foliage.  If  a  half  dozen  of  the  female  plants  surround  the  male, 
fruit  is  produced  of  value  for  tarts  and  exceedingly  ornamental. 

The  Bladder  Senna  is  a  shrub  of  varied  colors  in  its  blossoms, 
with  balloon-like  pods  that  follow  the  flowers. 

The  Bladder  Nut  has  a  profusion  of  white  bell  shaped  flowers 
early  in  summer. 

The  Clethra  is  an  erect  shrub,  with  spikes  of  white  flowers 
from  July  to  September. 

The  Flowering  Currant  has  many  varieties.  Gordon's  is  the 
best 

The  Deutzia  ts  a  low  growing  shrub  of  great  beaut}T. 

The  Golden  Bell  Shrub  has  several  varieties,  all  producing 
yellow  bell-shaped  flowers  in  spring. 

The  Hydrangea  is  generally  of  herbaceous  character  and 
requires  protection  in  winter,  but  there  are  some  new  varieties 
of  these  that  are  exceedingly  valuable. 

The  Upright  or  Tree  Honeysuckle  is  one  of  the  best  flowering 
shrubs. 

The  Kcelreuteria  is  a  second  class  tree,  a  little  tender,  but 
prominent  as  a  novelty. 

The  Laburnum  or  Golden  Chain  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful, 
when  in  flower,  of  the  large  shrubs. 

The  Lilac,  known  botanically  as  Syringa  Vulgaris,  is  well- 
known.  It  has  a  tendency  to  sucker,  but  a  little  attention  from 
year  to  year  will  enable  the  grower  to  keep  it  to  a  single  stem, 
and  grouped  with  the  Snow-ball,  Red  Bud,  Purple  Fringe,  it  is 


LANDSCAPE    GAR]  BNINO.  11 

of  great  beauty,  Josikaea  and  Charles  Xth  have  macfa  the  habit 
of  the  old  variety,  but  flowers  of  o  different  color.  The  Chinese 
and  Persian  Lilacs  are  <>f  a  dwarf  Bize,  and  Buited  to  mingle  with 
Sprui 

The  Mezereum  is  a  small  shrub  of  about  two  feet  in  height, 
giving. a  profusion  of  pink  «>r  white  flowers  in  early  Bpring. 

The  Double  Flowering  Plum,  like  the  Double  Flowering  Thorn, 
ia  a  compact,  round  headed  large  shrub  of  great  beauty  when  in 
bloom. 

The  Purplt  Fringi  is  one  of  the  Varieties  of  Rhus.  of  value 
and  beauty.     It  is  known  as  Smoke  Tree,  Jews  Beard,  etc. 

The  Japan  Quinct  has  many  varieties  in  colors,  from  whit 
scarlet  in  its  blooms.     It  will  always  find  a  place  in  all  grounds, 
as  it  is  a  beauty  in  itself. 

The  Red  Had  ox  Judas  Tree  forms  a  low,  round  headed  tree, 
abounding  in  a  profusion  of  pinkish  red  tlowers  in  early  spring, 
and  when  planted  where  Evergreens  make  the  background,  it  is 
one  of  the  valued  second-class  trees. 

The  Stuartia  and  Shoic  Jkrry  are  low  shrubs  of  value. 

The  or  Burning  Bush  is  a  variety  of  beauty  in 

foliage  and  its  fruit  of  a  bright  red,  holding  on  nearly  all  winter. 

The  Scphora  is  a  fine  shrub  south  say  of  Philadelphia,  north 
of  that  it  is  only  half  hardy. 

The  Shrubby  Spireas  are  all  of  value  and  beauty  for  gai 

-.     The  following   are,   according   to   the   botanical 
terms,  among  the  best,  viz.:     PrunifoUa  Flore  Ph 
Thai  L  'ii'i  Flore  /'  Ad><i  and 

bunda  all  have  white  flowers.    Tie-  Ik-da.  Nobleana,  Eximia, 
•'/and  BiUardii  all  have  pink  <>r  rosy  liowers. 

The   Snow   Dmj,,    botanically    Hal     ■.    is  one  of   the   most 
beautiful  of  Bhrub  trees.     Then'  are  two  varieties,  a  four-wii 
and  a  two-winged,  in   flower.     Their  best  position  is  as  a 
nl  of  a  group  of  Evergreens. 

The  »wth,  with  dark  wood  and 

f  iliage,  a  chocolate  I  flower  highly  perfumed 


42 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


The  Syringa,  or  Mock  Orange,  is  a  well  known  old  shrub  of 
varieties,  among  which  the  Garland,  Gordons  and  Profuse 
Flowering  are  among  the  best.     There  are  some  dwarf  varieties. 

The  Tamarisk  is  one  of  the  most  delicate  and  airy  like  in 
appearance  among  shrubs.  The  African  and  Algiers  are  among 
the  hardiest. 

The  Weigela. — Among  all  the  hardy  flowering  shrubs,  intro- 
duced within  the  past  thirty  years,  this,  as  a  class,  takes  a  first 
rank.  It  is  of  easy  cultivation,  suited  to  all  soils.  It  bears 
pruning  freely,  and  may  be  grown  as  a  bush  or  to  a  single  stem. 

The  White  Fringe  Tree,  or  Virginia  Snow  Flower,  is  a  shrub 
or  low  tree,  doing  best  in  moist  soil,  producing  a  profusion  of 
drooping  white  flowers  in  early  summer. 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


48 


PLAN  No.   i. 


This  pUm  is  for  a  lot  30  by  150  feet  and 
on  a  scale  of  25  feet  to  the  inch.  The 
house,  as  a  main,  is  20  by  32  feet,  and 
placed  2  feet  from  the  boundary  line  on 
one  side  and  8  feet  from  the  line  on  the 
other  side.  The  position  of  the  rooms  are 
shown,  also  the  chimney,  which  could  have 
three  separate  flues  for  fires  from  three 
rooms.  The  hall  and  stairs  are  shown, 
and  the  16  feet  long  building  in  rear  is 
supposed  to  be  used  as  a  wood  shed  and 
washing  room.  The  well,  marked  with  an 
o,  is  on  the  side  where  driving  may  come, 
while  the  cistern,  marked  o,  is  where 
water  can  be  taken  into  three  rooms. 

The  pathway  to  the  door  is  shown  on 
the  plan,  and  all  the  front  aside  from  this, 
as  well  as  the  wide  space  from  the  front  to 
rear  of  wood  shed,  should  be  kept  in 
grass. 

Hedges  of  the  various  Evergreens,  such 
as  the  Hemlock,  Norway  Spruce,  Arbor 
Vito,  etc.,  may  be  planted,  if  desired,  on 
each  of  the  lines  of  boundary  and  in  front, 
except  where  the  entrance  way  is,  but  they 
should  be  kept  yearly  and  properly  pruned. 
When  the  trees  are  planted  they  should  be 
mulched  with  litter,  tan  bark,  eta,  say  two 
feet  in  diameter  from  the  body. 

numbers,   with  the  names  of   trees,    etc.,    all 


The   following   numbers,    with   the   names 
attached,  correspond  with  their  places  for  growth  on  the  map 


44 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


1— Cembrian  Pine. 

2 — Magnolia  Glanca. 

3 — American  White  Spruce. 

4 — Austrian  Pine. 

5 — Dwarf  Horse  Chestnut. 

6 — Magnolia  Purpurea. 

7 — Strawberry  Tree. 

8 — Purple  Fringe. 

9— Japan  Quince. 

10— This  is  designed  for  a  bud  of  flowers  of 
sorts.  Lilacs,  Geraniums,  Tea  Roses,  Bourbon 
Roses,  Lantanas,  Verbenas,  etc.,  such  as  may 
please  the  taste  of  the  owner  and  yc-t  be  in 
bloom  most  of  the  season.  A  good  effect  is  to 
raise  the  rear  of  the  bed  next  the  house  to  the 
upper  tier  of  the  underpinning,  then  make  it 
a  rolling  grade  down  to  the  turf.  Then  place 
here  and  there  a  broken  stone  of  varied  color, 
tilling  in  and  around  them  with  good  soil  from 
the  woods,  and  then  plant  the  American  Ivy  or 
Virginia  Creeper,  varieties  of  Hardy  Clematis 


and  Trailing  Junipers  for  the  purpose  of 
keeping  a  green  show  in  winter. 
11 — Tom  Thumb,  or  some  other  dwarf  sort  i  f 

Arbor  Yitie. 
12,  12— Two   varieties    of  Apples,    grown   as 

dwarfs. 
13— Red  Jacket  Cherry. 
14 — Eockport  Cherry. 
15 — Early  Richmond  Cherry. 
16— Black  Tartarian  Cherry. 
17— Early  York  Peach. 
18— Old  Mixon  Free  Peach. 
10-Crawford"s  Early  Peach. 
20  to  85 — Varieties  of  Dwarf  Pears  as  follows: 
1  Benrre  Giffart.  1  Bartlett. 

1  Duchess  d'Angowlem.-*.  1  Tyson. 

1  Benrre  d'Anjou. 
26,  27  and  88— Grapes  : 
1  Concord.  1  Delaware. 

1  Hartford  Prolific. 
'."i.  89—  Quinces. 
<i0,30 — Rows  for  Currants  or  other  small  fruits 


LA2TOSCAPE    GAKI  ENING. 


45 


PLAN   No.  2. 


8— Early  Richmond  Cherry. 
'.)— Rock  port  Cherry. 
10— Six  Dwarf  Pears,  as  follows  : 

1  Beurre  GifEart.  1  Bartlett. 

1  Duchess  d'Angoulcme.         1  Rostiezcr. 

1  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey.    1  Beurre  d'Anjou. 


This  plan  is  made  only  to  show 
how  a  place  may  be  improved.  Scale 
25  feet  to  the  inch.  The  house  being: 
already  built  and  fronting  20  feet 
back  from  the  street  line,  one  side  is 
so  near  the  adjoining  line  that  the 
drip  of  the  eaves  really  falls  upon 
other  property,  while  on  the  other 
side  there  is  but  just  good  room  for  a 
carriage  or  cartway,  for  delivery  of 
coal,  etc.,  say  12  feet.  The  distance 
in  the  rear  of  the  house  is  near  50 
feet,  with  little  or  nothing  now  upon 
it  but  an  outhouse  or  privy.  We 
|j  commence  the  improvement  of  this 
plan  from  the  rear,  and  shall  give  a 
fair  i  of  the  cost. 

In  this,  as  in  all  planting,  our  ad- 
vice is  never  to  buy  large,  tall  trees, 
but  take  stocky,  well  branched  ones, 
three  to  five  feet  in  height 

1,  1— (Quinces. 

2,  2—  Dwarf  Apples  trees  or  varieties  : 
1  Bed  Asirachan. 
1  Duchess  of  Oldenburgh. 

3,  3.  8)  3—4  Concord  Grape  Vines  on  trellis  or  stakes 
No  :irbor. 

4,  4-2  Hartford  Prolific  Grapes. 

5,  5—2  Delaware  Grapes. 
fi-1  M:irtha. 
7—1  Telegraph.     All  the  Grapes  to  be  trained  on 

wirrs  or  stakes. 

11— Black  Tartarian  Cherry. 
12— Row  of  Currants. 
13— Red  Jacket  Cherry. 
X— This  cross  indicates  places  for  Gooseberry 
Bushes. 


46 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


Estimates  of  value  of  good  trees  for  this  planting  at  regular 
retail  rates  of  the  best  nurserymen : 

2  Apple  or  Orange  Quince $  1.00 

2  Dwarf  Apples CO 

10  Grape  Vines 5.00 

4  Cherries 2.00 

6Dwarf  Pears 3.00 

12  Currants 2.00 

12  Gooseberries 2.00 

$15.60 

Doubtless  from  10  to  20  per  cent,  less  would  fill 
this  order,  if  given  to  a  responsible  Nurseryman. 

Labor  of  planting 3.00 

Total....' $18.00 

Now  we  will  take  the  arrangements  of  the  foreground. 

No.  20  is  designed  for  planting  of  hardy  flowering  shrubs,  and 
the  numbers  in  this  block  have  no  reference  to  the  rear  of  the 
house,  but  each  has  the  name  of  the  plants  to  be  there  placed  : 

1— Red-fruited  Berberry.  here  and  there  a  single  one     Arrange  it 
2— Euonymous  or  Strawberry  Tree.  so  that  they  shall  not  be  on  a  level,  but  a 
3— Wcigela  Rosea.  broken  line.  Now  fill  in  among  the  t- tones 
4— Variegated  Wiegela.  along  the  line  with  creeping  hardy  vint  s, 
5-Wicgela  Amabilis.  both  Evergreen  and  Summer  Flowering. 
6— Gordon's  Syringa.  being  careful  to  have  some  of  the.  Ampi  1- 
7— Spirea  Lanceolata  fl.  plena.  opsis  or  Virginia  Creeper,  the  Wistaria  and 
8—  Spirea  Revesii  Cobusta.  Clematis  Virginica.    Use  the  beet  of  light 
9— Deutzia  Crenata,  flora  plena.  rich  loam  for  the  planting  tif  the  vines 
10— Magnolia  Rubra.  along  the  line.    It  would  also  improve 
11—  Deutzia  Gracilis.  their  growth  were  the  ground  along  the 
12— Hydrangea  Paniculata  Grandiflora.  line  deeply  dug  and  richly  manured  be- 
13 — Variegated-leaved  Dogwood.  fore  plating  the  stones  and  plants. 
14— Hedge  of  Norway  Spruces.  16— Purple-leaved  Maple. 
15 — Along  this  front  line  have  it  raised  a  foot  17 — Bed  for  flowering  plants,  such  as  Roses, 
or  more  higher  than  the  sidewalk,  and  with  a  Geramums,  Lantanas,  Lilies,  Heliotrope, 
rolling   bank.      Then  gather  rough  boulders,  Caleus,  Verbenas,  Sweet  Alysum,  Tube- 
broken  stones  of  color,  lay  them  along,  two  and  roses,  Salvias,  etc. 
three  in  one  place  and  five  in  another,  with 

Should  this  property  change  hands  and  the  coming  man  wish 
to  have  a  barn  and  keep  his  own  carriage  and  horses,  the 
entrance  road  now  proposed  to  be  kept  in  grass  might  be 
graded,  and  position  for  the  barn  be  made  by  simply  removing 
some  dwarf  pears, — a  tree  that  can  at  any  age  be  transplanted 
successfully. 


LANDSCAPE     GAR]  KNINo. 


47 


PLAN   No.  3 


41.  X    X     X  43 

Al 

42 
41  X  X  X  X  X4I 
41  X  X    X  X4I 


GARDEN! 


re  13  /  ;i2 


This  is  designed  for  a  gen- 
tleman's suburban  residence, 
an<l  embraces  100  f«'<-t  front 

apOD  the  street  with  ;!<><>  feet 

in  depth  »»f  lot 

The  ground  plan  of  the 
house  is  our  own.  and  the 
structure  of  it  we  design  to 
be  of  a  plain  substantial  struc- 
ture, with  n<>  attempt  at 
Italian,  Doric,  Norman,  Gothic 
Grecian  or  any  other  specific, 
distinct  order.  Taking  the 
ground  plan  as  presented,  it 
will  be  seen  that  we  have  not 
made  it  to  work  from,  for  we 
have  not  shown  how  closets 
and  shelves  can  be  made  and 
incorporated  in  the  walls  with- 
out disfiguring  the  rooms  and 
adding  greatly  to  the  expense 
of  construction.  We  design 
it  to  have  a  basement  for 
coal,  etc.,  and  to  be  two 
Stories  high,  with  a  Man-aid 
roof  as  an  attic,  and  we  ad- 
whoever  may  build  from 
suggestions  herein,  to  hai 
"Porte  Cochen"  or  covered 
archway,    for   the   getting    in 

and  out  of  the  carriage.    We 
have  made  no    provision  for 
the  bath  room  on  the  first 
floor,  believing  that  slum 
on  the  sleeping  or  second  floor. 


48 


HAND-BOOK    OF   PRACTICAL 


The  numbers  given  in  this  schedule  of  explanation  have  each 
the  variety  or  tree  plant,  and  correspond  with  the  numbers  on 
the  plan. 

The  scale  of  the  drawing  or  design  is  50  feet  to  the  inch : 


1.  1— Purple  leaved  Maples. 

2— Curled  Ash-leaved  Maple. 

3— Crested-leaved  Beech. 

4—  Fern-leaved  Beech. 

5 — Dwarf  Birch. 

ft— Cut-leaved  Alder. 

7— Dwarf  Hybrid  Mountain  Ash. 

8— Norway  Spruce  >  Tar  Ercflsa  Pygmea.) 

9— Norway  Spinre  (  Tar  Ercdsa  Mucronata.) 
10— Norway  Sp/uce  |  Tar  Tortuosa  Compacta.) 
11— nemlock  Dwarf  (Tar  Canadensis  Nana.) 
IS— Purple-leaved  Beech. 
13— Purple-leaved  Elm. 
14— Tom  Thumb  Arbor  Vitae. 
15 -Tulip  Tree. 

16— Weeping  Birch  (Tar  Elegans  Pendula.) 
17 — Magnolia  Sonlangeana. 
IS— Whit.-  Double  Flowering  Horse  Chestnut. 
19— Magnolia  Glauca. 
20— White-leaved  Linden. 
21— Ash-leaved  Maple. 
22— Lobels  Maple. 
23— Cembrian  Pine. 
24 — Cut-leaved  Weeping  Birch. 
25 — White  or  Weymouth  Pine. 
26— Nordmann's  Silver  Fir. 
27 — Hemlock. 
28— Austrian  Pine. 
29 — Magnolia  Acuminata. 
30— Norway  Spruce. 
31— Imperial  Cut-leaved  Alder. 
32— Scotch  Pine. 
33 — Purple-leaved  Berberry. 
34 — Norway  Spruce. 
35 — American  Silver  Fir. 
36 — Siberian  Arbor  Vita?. 
87— Finns  Pumila. 
38 — Pinus  Mugho  Rotundata. 
39— Pinus  Mugho. 
40— Varieties  of  Sweet  Cherries  : 
Black  Tartarian.  Rockport. 

Red  Jacket.  Elton. 

Early  Purple  Guigne. 
41 — Dwarf  Pears  of  varieties  : 
Beurre  Giffart,  Bartlett. 


Clapp's  Favorite.  Rostiezer. 

Belle  Lucrative.  Ty6on. 

Duchess  d'Angouleme.  Howell. 

Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey.  Sheldon. 

Conseiller  de  la  Cour.  Beurre  d'Anjou. 

Doyenne  du  Cornice. 

42— Rows  of  Grapes. 

43— Dwarf  Apples. 

The  varieties  to  fill  these  two  last  fruits  is 
left  to  please  the  taste  of  the  planter  or 
owner  of  the  land. 

44— This  bed  is  designed  to  be  filled  with 
hardy  flowering  shrubs,  from  the  front 
comer  of  the  house  back.  Place  the  tall- 
est and  strongest  growers  at  the  back  end 
and  so  along  the  line  next  the  house,  then 
tone  down  toward  the  path  with  those  of 
more  slender  growth  ;  and  in  trimming 
yearly,  cut  so  as  to  keep  a  rolling  line 
from  the  house  to  the  path,  all  the  time 
keeping  the  rear  end  the  highest.  That 
portion  of  this  bed  we  should  plant  with 
Tulips,  Lilies,  Hyacinths  and  Crocus,  and 
in  summer,  after  the  early  flowers  are 
gone,  put  in  Tuberoses,  Verbenas,  or  any 
other  small  plants  that  must  die  or  be 
taken  out  in  autumn,  when  the  bed  wants 
a  mulch  covering  of  good  leafy  loam. 

45— This  bed  may  be  planted  partly  with 
herbaceous  Peonies,  and  then  the  Sweet 
Peas,  Lantanas  and  many  other  summer 
flowering  plants  may  be  worked  in  for  the 
late  season. 

46 — Is  a  bed  for  Roses,  Geraniums  and  any 
other  free  blooming  and  beautiful  flower- 
ing plants  the  owner  may  choose.  In  the 
autumn  it  may  be  filled  with  any  small 
and  cheap  plants  of  Evergreens  to  keep 
free  from  view  the  bare  ground.  The 
surrounding  of  the  roots  of  the  trees,  say 
four  feet  in  diameter,  should  have  a 
mulch  of  some  kind  for  two  or  three 
years,  and  then  all  but  the  flowering 
shrubbery  beds  and  fruit  garden  may  be 
kept  in  turf. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


49 


PLAN  No.  4. 


Scale.  30  feet  to  one  inch. 

This  plan  is  for  a  lot  50  by  150 
feet.  The  main  of  the  house  is  36 
by  24  feet,  two  stories  high,  with  a 
wing  of  one  story,  12  by  28  feet, 
and  a  kitchen  of  16  by  20  feet  in 
the  rear  of  the  main  building.  The 
height  of  stories  may  and  must  be 
governed  by  the  builder.  We  sug- 
gest, however,  that  the  lower  story 
be  twelve  feet  high  and  the  upper 
eight  feet.  The  kitchen  may  be 
carried  up  with  the  main  building, 
and  if  widened  to  its  width  would 
make  a  good  wash  room  and  al><  1  :i 
storage  room.  The  main  hall  could 
be  let  into  it  four  feet,  and  then  a 
side  door  connecting  with  a  path 
outside,  as  here  shown,  only  spread 
out  to  meet  the  spread  of  the  build- 
ing. The  porch  in  front  of  the 
main  building  is 8  feet,  and  its  stylo 
must  correspond  with  the  balance 
of  the  building.  A  bay  window  is 
placed  to  light  the  front  room  in  the 
wing,  and  the  chimneys  marked, 
except  the  kitchen,  where  a  brick  flue  will  be  needed  from  first 
ceiling.  The  barn  we  have  calculated  only  for  a  single  horse 
and  buggy,  but  it,  of  course,  can  be  enlarged. 


50 


HAND-BOOK   OF  PRACTICAL 


In  the  planting  of  the  grounds  the  numbers  on  the  plan 
correspond  with  the  following  schedule  list.  In  this  we  have 
not  calculated  for  vegetable  growing,  believing  fruit  to  be  more 
profitable  and  more  difficult  to  purchase  than  vegetables. 

The  drive  or  carriage  way  shows  a  landing  at  the  porch,  and 
then  again  at  the  side  hall  door. 

In  the  planting  of  this  design  we  have  only  given  the  front  as 
the  decorative  portion,  giving  all  the  balance  to  such  fruits  as  it 
is  difficult  to  purchase  in  good  order  at  reasonable  rates.  At  the 
same  time  we  have  tried  to  include  some  that  we  count  as  better 
gathered  from  the  vine  or  plant  than  those  of  the  same  in 
market : 


1— Purple-leaved  Maple. 

2 — Purple-leaved  Elm. 

3— Indian  Birch  {Bhojputtra.) 

4 — Cut-leaved  Weeping  Birch. 

5— Oak-leaved  Mountain  Ash. 

6— Birch.— Variety,  Elegans  Pendula. 

7— Tom  Thumb  Arbor  Vitae. 

8— Pinus  Pumilo. 

9— Norway  Spruce  ( far  Tortvosa  Compacta.) 
10— This  bed,  (the  form  of  which  is  outlined,) 
should  be  planted  with  Lilies,  Tulips,  Hya- 
cinths and  otlur  bulbs  for  early  spring  bloom- 
ing ;  then  afterwards  fill  in  with  Verbenas. 
Geraniums,  Sedums,  Ivies,  and  various 
annuals,  sucti  as  Balsams,  Sweet  Peas,  Mignion- 
ette,  Alyssurn,  etc.  At  each  post  of  the  porch 
there  should  be  planted  a  climbing  plant.  The 
following  are  four  valuable  hardy  varieties, 
viz.  :  American  Ivy  oi  Virginia  Creeper, 
Clematis  Virginiana,  Periploca  Graca  or  Vir- 
ginia Silk,  Wistaria. 

11— This  bed  should  be  planted  with  hardy, 
low  growing,  flow,  ring  shrubs,  such  as  the  Ber- 
berry, Calycanthus,  Corchorus,  Gordon's  Flow- 
ering Currants,  Deutzias  of  varieties,  Forsythla, 
Hydrangea  Paniculata,  Persian  or  Chinese 
Dwarf  Lilacs,  Purple  Flowering  Magnolia, 
Spireas,  and  one  or  two  of  Weigelas'.  The  dis- 
tance apart  in  planting  should  be  two  io  two 
and  one-half  feet,  and  each  year  the  plants 
should  be  pruned  back  from  half  to  two-thirds 
of  the  year's  growth. 

12— This  bed  should  have  Crocus  and  Narcis- 
sus bulbs  for  early  spring  blooms,  then  be  filled 
with  Geraniums  and  Tuberoses  intermixed. 


13— This  bed  should  be  filled  with  perpetual 
blooming  roses  of  varieties.  It  should  be 
dug  very  deep,  at  least  two  feet,  and 
•  filled  in,  as  a  mixture  with  the  earth, 
with  decomposed  or  old  rotten  manure. 
The  plants  may  be  set  eighteen  inches  to 
two  feet  apart. 

14— Rockport  Cherry. 

15— Black  Tartarian  Cherry. 

16  —Red  Jacket  Cherry. 

17— Elton  Cherry. 

18— Early  Richmond  or  Louis  Phillip  Cherry. 

19— Early  York  Peach. 

20— Old  Mison  Freestone  Peach. 

21— Crawford's  Early  Peach. 

22— Ward's  Late  Freestone  Peach. 

2i  to  30— Dwarf  Pears  as  follows,  viz. : 
Beurre  Giffart.  Bartlett. 

Duchesse  d'Angouleme.         Tyson. 
Beurre  d'Anjou.  Beurre  Diel. 

Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey. 

31  to  34— Dwarf  Apples  as  follows  : 

Red  Astrachan.  Gravenstein. 

Large  Sweet  Bough.         Fameuse. 

X,  X— The  rows  with  crosses  drawn  over  the 
lines  are  for  grapes,  the  Concord,  Hart- 
ford Prolific,  Telegraph  and  Martha,  each 
planted  8  feet  apart  in  the  row.  Dela- 
ware, Iona,  Mottled,  Croton,  Lydia  and 
Rebecca  may  be  planted  6  feet  apart  in 
the  rows. 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


PLAN  No.  s 


51    56     55  54   53   52 
51     50     49    48  41  46 
+5     44       43      42. 


Scale,  40  feet  to  one  inch. 


52 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


This  plan  is  made  to  fit  a  corner  lot  where  the  streets  do  not 
run  at  right  angles  with  each  other.  The  front  is  supposed  to 
be  upon  the  main  travelled  street,  and  is  100  feet.  The  side 
street,  where  we  enter  by  carriage,  may  be  new  and  as  yet  little 
built  upon,  but  time  makes  many  changes.  The  depth  of  the 
lot  is  supposed  to  be  200  feet,  and  while  the  ground  plan  of  the 
house  shows  the  size  and  position  of  the  rooms,  no  porch  or 
"Porte  Cochen"  has  been  planned,  but  any  good  architect  can 
add  it,  according  to  the  style  of  architecture.  In  planning 
the  house,  we  have  looked  forward  to  the  builder  making  it  two 
stories  high,  with  a  basement  or  cellar  for  storage.  The  barn, 
20  by  40  feet,  we  leave  for  whoever  uses  this  to  arrange  accord- 
ing to  his  wants. 

As  with  all  of  the  other  plans  the  figures  on  the  ground 
correspond  with  this  schedule,  of  what  to  plant  and  where : 


1 — Cut-leaved  Beech. 

2— Slender  Twigged  Elm  (Var.  Campestris 
Viminalis.) 

3— Pnrple-leaved  Maple. 

4— Red  Flowering  Horse  Chestnut. 

5 — Dcutzia  Crcnata,  florepleno. 

6— Deutzia  Gracilis. 

7— Persian  White  Lilac. 

8— Magnolia  Obovata. 

9— Hydrangea  Paniculata  Grandiflora. 
10— Dwarf   White   Horse   Chestnut,    (Pavia 

Macrostachya. 
11— Scarlet  Japan  Quince. 
12— Euonynr;s  or  Strawberry  Tree. 
13— Gordon's  Flowering  Currant. 
14 — Pink  Flowering  Upright  Honeysuckle. 
15— Dcsbias'  Weigela. 
16— Spirca  Eximea. 
17— Weigela  ( Var  Ilortensis  Nivea.) 
18— Spirca  Douglassii. 
19— Spirea  Prunifolia,  flore  pleno. 
20 — Pink   Flowering   Upright    Honeysuckle. 

(Var  Pulverulenla.) 
21— Calycanthns,  or  Sweet  Scented  Shrub. 
22— Norway  Spruce,  of  a  drooping  character. 
23— Weeping  Birch  (B.  Elegans  Pendvla.) 
24 — Magnolia  Soulangiana. 
25— Salisburia  Adianlifolia. 
26— White-leaved  Linden. 


27— Rockport  Cherry. 

28-Elton  Cherry. 

29— Bhick  Tartarian  Cherry. 

30-Rcd  Jacket  Cherry. 

31 — Amc:ican  White  Spruce. 

32— PinusMugho. 

33— Tom  Thumb  Arbor  Vitse. 

34— Norway  Spruce  (  Var  ExceUa  Inverta.) 

35 — Pinus  Pumilio. 

20 — This  bed  (shown  in  ouiline)  should  be 
planted  with  hardy  bulba  f"r  spring 
bhiommg,  and  on  their  decay,  annual 
flowers  of  varieties,  Verbenas,  etc.,  may 
take  their  place  for  balance  of  (he  season. 

37— This  bed  is  to  be  tilled  with  varieties  of 
perpetual  roses. 

38— This  brd  to  be  planted  with  Heliotropes, 
Geraniums,  Tuberoses,  etc.,  intermingled. 

39 — Plant  this  bed  with  Herbaceous  Peonias, 
Phlcxes,  Campanulas,  Dicentra,  Iris, 
Liatris,  Spircas  and  other  hardy  her- 
baceous plants. 

40— Austrian  Pine. 

41— Early  Richmond  or  Louis  Phillipe  Cherry 

42  to  45 — Dwarf  Apples  of  variety. 

46  to  63— Dwarf  Pears  of  varieties,  eight  feet 
apart  each  way. 

64 — Rows  for  Grapes,  eight  feet  apart  each 
way. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


53 


PLAN  No.  6. 


Scale.  60  feet  to  one  utch. 


54  HAND-BOOK   OF  PRACTICAL 

« 

In  this  we  only  show  the  arrangement  of  the  foregrounds  to 
the  rear  of  the  house.  "We  have  made  no  plan  for  the  building, 
but  have  left  40  by  80  feet  for  its  base,  and  have  so  planned  the 
drive  ways  that  it  can  be  entered  from  any  side. 

The  plan  may  be  used  for  level  ground,  but  often  there  is  a 
rise  of  ground  between  the  front  and  rear  of  the  lot,  and  often 
this  rise  obstructs  a  line  rear  view  from  the  front  lawn,  unless  it 
is  graded  to  meet  the  level  of  the  lawn  upon  the  side  where  there 
is  the  most  space.  Should  any  one  adopt  this  plan,  having 
rising  grounds  on  the  position  of  the  house,  then  we  should 
advise  him  to  grade  only  so  as  to  make  his  drive  ways  level  and 
easy  of  travel. 

We  have  designed  this  for  any  place  varying  from  5  to  500 
acres,  giving  the  width  of  front  200  feet  and  the  position  of  the 
house  back  from  the  main  road  165  feet 

We  have  made  no  note  of  fruit  treesun  the  planting,  for  few, 
if  any,  can  be  judiciously  and  tastefully  mingled  with  the 
strictly  ornamental. 

The  numbers  on  the  plan  correspond  with  the  numbers  given 
in  the  following  schedule,  and  to  each  number  we  designate  the 
name  of  the  plant  or  tree,  or  give  the  class  as  a  group. 

We  commence  with  the  immediate  front.  All  the  space 
between  the  house  and  roads  should  be  kept  in  clean  turf.  A 
hedge  of  Norway  Spruce  or  Arbor  Vitse  may  be  planted  on  each 
of  the  side  borders  of  the  lot  here  designed  : 

1— Hedge  of  Hemlock.  16— Cornus  or  Dogwood  (Var  Mascula.) 

2—  Pavia  Carnca  Superba.  17— Purple-leaved  Maple. 

3— Pavia  Carnea  Pubesceus.  18— Purple-leaved  Maple. 

4— Pavia  Purpurea.  19— Mountain  Ash. 

5— Pavia  Rubra.  20— Weeping  Linden. 

C— Pavia  Rubra  Atrosanguinea.  21— Weeping  Beech. 

7-Pavia  Flava.  22— Cut-leaved  Weeping  Birch. 

8— Trefoil  Tree.  23-Wceping  Poplar. 

9— Sumach  ( Var  Glabra  Lacinlata.)  24— Weeping  Mountain  Ash. 

10— Sumach  ( Var  Osbeckii.)  25— Camperdown  Weeping  Elm. 

1 1-Prunus  Triloba.  26— Cork-barked  Weeping  Elm. 

12— Double  Flowering  Sloe  Plum.  27— Dwarf  Weeping  Cherry  (PumUa.) 

13— Halesia  Tetraptera.  28— Ever-flowering    Weeping    Cherry     (Far 
14— Euonymus  or  Strawberry  Tree.  Semperilorens.) 

15— Five   varieties   of  Amorpha  or  Bastard    29— European  Weeping  Ash. 

Indigo.  30— Gold-barked  Weeping  Ash. 


LAN  DSCA  l'E    GARD  F.N1XG. 


0L> 


31— Weeping  Birch.  Var  Elegant  Pendula, 
SB— Wei  ping  Euouymous,  Var  Pendula. 
BB— Variegated  Weeping  Thorn. 
:J.i    Weeping     Honey    Locust,    Var.   Bvjoti 

: 
35—  W  rch. 

American  Wc  eping  Willow. 
■7— Weeps  g  Beoteb  Elm,  Var.  Montana  Pen- 

38— Young's  New  Weeping  Birch. 

39— Small  li:n.(i  Weeping  Ehn,  Var.  Jficro- 

phylla  Pendula. 
40— Magnolia  Acuminata. 
41 -Tulip  Tree. 

4-2— European  Sycamore  Map\c. 
O— BwecdJsh  Juuiper. 
■i  I— American  spruce. 
16— Austrian  Pine. 

4fi — Norway  Spruce. 

lici'on  of  Weigelas.  planted  three  feet 
each  way,  within  the  form  of  the  outlined 
bed. 

■  ilection  of  Lilac?,  two  to  three  feet 

apart  each  way,  according  to  habit  of  growth. 

49— Collection    of    Bpireaa    and    Deutzias, 

from  two  to  three  feet  apart,  according 

to  habit  of  growth. 

I  rbaceona  Peonias  in  varieties,  planted 
I  apart. 
61— T:  varieties  from  2)4  to  3  feet 

apart  each. 

nices. 
phyli  i  <  r  Bladder  Nut. 
.")i-  Porple  Fringe. 
55 — Gordon's  Bj  ringa. 
SB— Large  Flowered  Byi 
B7— Hoary-leavcd  Sy  ringa. 
SB— w 

SB— Higfa  or  r.u-h  Cranberry,  Var.  Oxycocats. 
- 

01—  S: 

m. 
Snow  Ball,  Var  Rugt 
til- s..ow  Ball,  Var  Prwdfbttvm. 

i.".— "Sn.iw  I'.. ill.  Var  Lantanoide*. 
-  torn  Ball,  Var  Plicatum. 
rl.or  Vit.f. 
68 — Coraican  or  Norway  Pine. 

LStrian  Pine, 
10— White  Pine. 
71 — Oembrian  Pine. 
Pine. 

rd  or  Judas  Tree. 
kmericsn  White  Bprnce,  Able*  Alba. 
.  Bprnce,  Abitt  Rubra. 
I 
77— Balaam  Fir. 
7  s     i 
79 — Hemlock. 


60— Banksian  Pine. 

H— European  Silver  Fir. 

;ka    Sound    Cypress  or    Thujopsis 
Borealia. 

<?    Siberian  Arbor  Vita?. 

Kl— Arbor  Vita,  Var  Oigantea. 
m  Vltaj,  Var  OtOOOM. 
-  iHsburia  Adiantifolia. 
.  leaved  Mountain  Ash. 

BB— Doable-flowering  White  Horse  Chestnut 

BO— Bngllan  Elm. 

90— Serrated-leaved  Elm. 

Bl— Standee  Twigged  Elm. 

92— Elm,  Var  Stricta  Oxoniense. 

BB— Magnolia  Qlaucs. 

91— Plant  thia  bed  with  ITybrid  Perpetnal 
Roses  of  \  arieties.  Dig  the  ground  deep, 
and  make  it  rich. 

95— This  bed  is  for  Geraniums,  Heliotropes, 
etc..  etc. 

96— Make  thin  bed  deep  and  rich.  Plant  in 
it  Japan  Lilies,  Tulips,  Hyacinths,  etc., 
and  as  the  spring  blooms  fade,  put  in 
Verbenas  or  any  free  blooming,  tender 
plant. 

'.>'— In  this  bed  mingle  Tea  and  Bourbon 
Roses  with  varieties  of  the  rare  and 
beautiful  Clematis. 

98— Imperial  Cut-leaved  Alder. 

99-Toui  Thumb  Arbor  Vital 

100 — Chinese  Golden  Arbor  Vita),  Variety 
Aurea. 

101— Oval  bed  In  front  of  house.  The  outer 
Hue.  marked  a,  should  be  planted  with 
JUttlperUS  BQMM,  oi.ee  in  three  feet  and 
and  one  foot  back  of  the  edge  all  around 
the  oval.  The  center  of  this  bed  should 
be  raised  one  foot  shore  ihe  edge.  The 
next  planting  should  be  inside  of  the 
above  two  feet, of  JuMpena  Nana,  one 
in  two  feet.     Next  inside  plant  Jtmlpsnu 

Bquamata,  same  as  other-,    in  the  center. 

of    this    oval    plant    one    ALUs    i'jv./.-'d 
Pi/i/i/it'l.  and  at  each  end  plant  an  AbiM 

TbrfaoM  Oompacta,  then  All  the  remain- 
ing space  with  Abiat  Nigra  PumUa. 

10-2 — If  the  planter  resides  where  the  Yew  is 
hardy,  plant  this  bed  with 
that  Evergreen  shrub,  if  the  Tew  is  not 
hardy,  then  All  1 1 1 1  —  bed  with  plants  of 
the  Dwarf  Hemlock  variety,  AMei  Cana- 
densis Sana. 

103— In  thll  bed  place  the  Dwarf  White  I'ine, 
—Piitus    Strol/us    Nana-   in    the    center, 

three  plants  on  the  Um  g  line  three'  feet 

apart:      then    plant    the     I'inu*    Mtiijho 
live  plants,  and  make  up 
the  nuluucu  with  HjUM  Mutjhu. 


56  HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


Landscape  or  Home  Adornment. 


Dipping  into  my  portfolio  a  few  days  since,  and  looking  over 
sketches  of  plans  that  I  had  made  for  various  gardens,  it 
occurred  to  me  that  perhaps  some  of  these  skeleton  plans  might 
be  of  use  in  communicating  ideas  for  working  up  some  new 
place  about  to  be  created  by  a  reader  of  rural  art,  and  therefore 
I  have  transcribed  and  here  offer  two  of  them. 

As  the  style  of  the  house,  architecturally,  as  well  as  the 
association  of  the  neighboring  lots,  has  much  to  do  with  the  kind 
of  trees  to  be  planted,  I  have  omitted  any  detail,  because  such 
detail  would  be  of  little  or  no  avail.  I  will  merely  say  that  if 
the  house  is  a  square  character,  with  a  flat  roof  and  standing  on 
nearly  level  land,  then  the  prevailing  character  of  the  trees 
should  be  of  a  round-headed  habit;  but  if  the  house  is  of  a 
pointed  gothic,  or  with  many  broken  yet  harmonious  lines,  and 
its  location  on  some  elevated  position,  then  spiral  and  pointed 
trees  should  be  largely  introduced,  and  especially  near  the 
house. 

This  was  designed  for  a  lot  the  elevation  of  which  at  the  house 
is  some  six  feet  or  more  above  the  grade  at  the  public  street,  and 
the  house  situated  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  back  there- 
from. 

The  owner  of  this  desired  as  few  paths  and  roads  as  could  be, 
and  meet  the  actual  daily  travel  demand.  Neither  did  he  want 
provision  for  many  flower-beds,  as  he  only  kept  one  man  to  care 
for  horses,  garden  and  all  work.  The  beds  next  the  public  road 
are  designed  to  be  planted  with  flowering  shrubs,  in  order  to 
break  a  little  the  lawn  from  open  exposure.  So  the  bed  on  the 
right  of  entrance  footpath  is  to  be  planted  with  shrubs,  and  also 
that  where  the  carriage-road  comes  near  the  boundary  to  the  left. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


Tin'  beds  near  the  house  in 
front  :mi  filled  with  low  trail- 
in--  Evergreens,  as  Daphne 
1  >rum,  Juniperua  Squam- 
ata.   Repens,  bile   the 

bed   "!i     tin-    k-ft    of  the    :' 

i<   planted   with   hardy 
Perpetual     Rosea     ami 

eping  the  flower- 

'  garden    proper    up    near   the 

~J^  bouse    and     immediately    in 

view  of  the  drawing-room  bay 

window.  As  most  of  the  land- 
in-  is  at  the  rear  hall  door, 
tlu-  turn-way  is  thrown  in 
then-,  and  a  hedge  borders  the 
road  "ii  one  side,  separating 

it  from   the  fruit  or  vegetable 

garden,  harm  etc.  beyond. 
The  foregoing  was  designed 

worked  out,  written  upon  and 
published    some   years   since, 
hut    as   the  rality  of  the  plan  has   met   favor   with  many  of 

those   who  have   employed  me  in  my  profession,  I  decide  to 

include  it  in  this  work. 

The  illustrations  of  trees  in  the  plan  will  give  to  any  sensible 
man  an  idea  of  what  they  arc,  while  the  text  al.ove  tells  of 
where  to  plant  flowering  shrubs,  and  of  course  the  flower  garden 
will  be  ehanged  almost  yearly  by  those  who  reside  upon  the 
place 


58 


HAND-BOOK    OF    PRACTICAL 


Fig.  8. — Walks,  etc. — Ground  Plan. 

For  a  plot  with  parallel  boundary  lines,  the  accompanying 
design  (fig.  8)  is  one  of  the  simplest  and  yet  most  effective  which 
I  have  ever  seen.  By  examining,  it  will  be  observed  that  the 
center  is  a  simple  circle  from  which  four  beds  are  formed,  and 
from  outside  of  that  the  paths  and  beds  are  made  to  accom- 
modate natural  lines  of  travel,  which  the  position  of  the  house, 
being  on  the  side  where  stands  the  vase,  and  the  op'ening  in  the 
opposite  hedge  seems  to  demand.  Planting  these  separate  beds 
with  masses  of  flowers,  each  of  a  distinct  color,  produces  a 
constant  feature  of  interest  and  attraction.  The  shaded  line  is  a 
hedge,  having  a  passway  to  visit  the  next  occupant  of  a  lot. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


59 


^        ~ 


.-.:>-, 


Fig.  9.— View  of  Grounds 
.  '.i  shows  what  we  have  done  around  an  irregular  formed 
artificial  pond  in  six.  yeara  [rom  planting. 


60 


HAND-BOOK    OF   PRACTICAL 


Fig.  10. — Fountain. 
As  I  have  said  that  a  fountain  may  be  had  at  a  little  cost 
beyond  that  of  the  pipes  and  their  laying,  and  at  the  same  time 
be  made  to  harmonize  with  tree  and  surrounding,  I  offer  the 
illustration,  fig.  10,  which  is  simply  varied  pieces  of  rock  laid  up 
around  the  center  pipe,  and  having  a  wire-work  frame,  into  the 
meshes  of  which  are  woven  various  colored  stones  as  the  basin 
or  urn.  A  circular  pipe  surrounds  it,  over  which  is  laid  a  pave- 
ment of  stone  in  mosaic  work,  and  from  between  which 
numerous  smaller  jets  of  water  arise.  In  the  plinth  of  the 
structure,  amid  the  rocks,  ferns  and  water-plants  are  planted. 
The  mosaic  pavement  is  level  with  the  surrounding  turf,  with 
just  sufficient  dip  toward  the  center  to  draw  the  waste  water, 
which  passes  off  by  means  of  a  pipe  beneath. 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


PLAN   No.  9. 


Scale,  40  feet  to  one  inch. — Lot  10o  by  200 


I 


.9$ 


Jjiits 

I  i  -f  $  * 


BARN 

2CX30 


tax      47J    46 


Plan   !'  is   for  a   lot 

100  by  200  feet    The 

scale    Oil    which    it    is 

drawn  is40  feet  to  the 

inch.  The  main  floor 
of  the  house  is  36  by 
40  feet,  with  a  rear 
addition  of  20  by  20 
feet  The  doorways 
are  marked  D  and  the 

windows     W-    SXCepI 

two  bay  wi  odows, 
which  any  intellij 

carpenter  will  readily 
note.       We    have 

planned  : 

K— Kitchen ]■ 

C— Cloael 

B— 15,-cl in 

lining  Room U 

L— Living  Uoom  ...  1  titK 

P— I'arlnr U 

A  porch  < 
wide  should  face  the 
main  froi  feet 

Thi 
following       schedule 
spond    with   the 
ires  on  the  plan  : 


62 


HAND-BOOK    OF    PRACTICAL 


1— Double  White  Flowering  Horse  Chestnut. 

2— Purple  leaved    Elm    (Var.    Stricta    Pur- 
purea.) 

3 — Purple-leaved  Maple. 

4— Red  Flowering  Horse  Chestnut. 

5— Birch  (Var.  Alba  Fastigiata.) 

6— Elm  (Var.  Campestris  Pyramidalts.) 

7 — American  White  Spruce. 

8— American  Ri  d  Spruce. 

9— Austrian  Pine. 
10— White  or  Weymouth  Pine. 
11 — Norway  Spruce. 
12— Red  Bird  or  Judas  Tree. 
13—  Euonymua  or  Strawberry  Tree. 
14— Purple  Fringe. 
15— Bladder  Senna  or  Colutea. 
16 — Koelreuteria. 
17—  Scotch  Laburnum. 
18— Magnolia  Purpurea.  - 

10— Double  Flowering  Plum. 
20— Snow  Drop  or  Silver  Bell   (Halesia   Tet- 

raptera.) 
21-^Hydrangea  Panieulata. 
22— Scarlet  Japan  Quince. 
23 — Syringa  Gordoniana. 
34— Forsythia  Viridissima. 
23 — Gordon's  Flowering  Currant. 
26 — Persian  and    Chinese    Lilacs,    each  two 

feet  apart. 
27 — Dentzias     of    varieties,     with     Daphne 
Mezereon,  the  latter  and  Deutzia  Gracilis  being 
in  the  front. 

20— Upright  Honeysuckles,  Clethra,  Stuartia 
and  Calycanthns  are  to  fill  this  group.    Place 
the  strongest  growers  in  the  rear. 
29 — Spireas,  both  shrubs  and  herbaceous. 
30— Flowering     Lilies,     Tulips,     Hyacinths, 

Tube  Roses,  etc. 
31 — Weigelas  of  varieties. 
32-TnlipTree. 
33— Pinus  Mugho. 
34 — Juniperus  Squamata. 
35— Pinus  Pumilio. 
36 — Corsican  or  Norway  Red  Pine. 
37 — Cembrian  Pine. 
38,  38— Norway  Spruces. 
39— Cut-leaved  Weeping  Birch. 
40— Scotch  Pine. 
41 — Magnolia  Soulangeana. 
42 — Magnolia  Glauca. 
43 — Rockport  Cherry. 
44— Elton  Cherry. 


45— Early  Purple  Guigne  Cherry. 

46 — Early  Richmond  Cherry. 

47 — Black  Tartarian  Cherry. 

48— Red  Jacket  Cherry. 

49— Dwarf  Apple,  variety  Tetof  sky  on  Para  - 
dise  Stock. 

^^— This  indicates  the  position  of  L»warf 

""^  Pears.    Varieties  to  suit  the  planter. 

j|pp— These  indicate  positions  for  grapes. 
Varieties  to  please  the  owner. 

Gooseberries  and  Currants  may  be  planted,  if 
desired,  under  the  shade  of  the  Cherries, 
being  careful  not  to  plant  nearer  than  sis 
feet  from  the  bodies  of  the  trees. 

50,  50— The  two  beds  in  front  of  the  porch 
should  have  the  front  line  planted  with 
Juniperus  Eepcns,  then  immediately  back 
of  that,  at  a  distance  of  one  foot  from  the 
plants  of  Repent,  plant  the  Juniperus 
Nana.  Then  fill  the  balance  with  one 
plant  each  of  the  following  named  varie 
ties  of  Dwarf  Evergreens,  giving  each 
plant  a  distance  of  two  feet,  from  its 
neighbor  :  Thuja  EHcoides,  Tom  Thumb, 
Biota  Compacta,  Aurea  and  Pygmea, 
Abies  Excelsa  Elegans,  Gregorii,  Excelsa, 
Mucronata  and  Tortuosa  Compacta.  Dwarf 
Hemlock,  {Canadensis  Nana.)  the  Yew, 
(Taxus  Adpressa  and  Ericrides.)  then 
Mahonia  Aqvifolia.  Berberis  Darwinii, 
Tree  Box,  Cottou  Taster  and  Evergreen 
Thorn,  Cratagus  Pyracantha.  At  each 
post  of  the  porch  wires  should  be  placed 
six  inches  out  from  them,  and  one  vine 
each  of  the  following  climbers,  planted 
and  trained  the:e,  viz.  :  American  Ivy, 
Clematis  Virginiana,  Wistaria  Sinensis 
and  Lonlcera  Hallieana. 

51 — Plant  with  Geraniums,  Heliotropes,  Lan- 
tanas  and  other  tender  flowering  plants 
for  the  summer.  Have  ready  to  take 
from  a  place  in  the  rear  ground  some 
small  plants  of  Evergreens  and  place 
them  here  for  the  winter,  or  obtain  lead- 
ing stems  from  the  tops  or  branches  of 
old  Evergreen'trees  and  stick  them  in  the 
earth  to  show  a  green  feature  during  the 
winter. 

52,  52— These  two  beds  are  designed  for 
ever  blooming  roses.  They  should  be 
planted  18  inches  to  two  feet  apart, 
according  to  their  habit  of  growth. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


63 


PLAN   No.   ii 


102 
99 


97 


101 

100 

28 


91 
91 


RESERVE 
CR  GARDEN  GROUNDS 


BARN. 
28X40 


"34 


96       95     94      SI 

93      92  88    89    78    17  n 
90     85    dl     80      7.9       7R     77"?  I 33 

31  30     19    J&r3zW  n 

7;  '        .        ■.--■   m,j 


SCALE,  GO  FEET  TO  ONE  INCH. 


64  HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 

Plan  No.  11  is  drawn  at  a  scale  of  sixty  feet  to  one  inch,  lot 
160  by  320  feet,  and  is  designed  for  a  suburban  villa  lot,  or  as 
the  front  grounds  and  immediate  surroundings  of  a  country  farm 
or  fruit  grounds  with  some  pretension  to  style.  It  is  supposed 
that  the  house  will  be  of  a  broken,  pointed  style,  and  should 
stand  upon  a  slight  elevation,  of  say  six  to  eight  feet  of  grade, 
from  the  roadway  in  front.  Then  if  the  rear  of  the  house  has  a 
high  bank  or  rocky  slope,  we  think  our  plan  will  make  it  of 
value  as  well  as  ornamental,  as  we  have  put  in  trees  of  good 
fruit,  and  yet  hardy  and  ornamental. 

The  plan  of  the  house,  according  to  our  rule,  is  only  the  first 
ground  plan,  as  by  it  we  must  know  where  doors  outward, 
leading  to  paths,  etc.,  should  be  constructed.  The  elevation  of 
the  architecture  we  can  do,  but  as  it  is  not  a  part  or  parcel  of 
our  plan,  we  omit  it.  Reference  to  the  ground  plan  of  the 
house  will  show  as  follows : 

1  is  a  front  porch  8  feet  wide,  passing  on  the  side  where  the 
driveway   and  main  entrance  to  the  house  is  had. 

2  is  a  rear  porch  with  steps,  mainly  for  the  use  of  assistants  ; 
it  is  8  by  16  feet. 

3  is  a  green-house  or  conservatory,  20  by  28  feet,  with  glass 
doors  opening  from  the  hall  and  a  door  into  room  4,  or  the 
Library,  which  is  15  by  15  feet,  and  a  door  into  the  hall  out  on 
the  porch,  and  into  the  Parlor,  room  5,  which  is  15  by  18  feet ; 
from  this  room  a  door  opens  into  the  hall,  and  a  bay  window, 
projecting  2  feet  and  ranging  from  its  main  of  12  feet  on  the 
level  of  the  wall  in  the  room  to  eight  feet  on  its  front. 

6  is  the  main  hall,  8  by  15  feet,  where  it  should  have  bulwarks 
each  side  of  one  foot,  but  no  door. 

7  is  a  space  16  by  16  feet  with  a  4  by  4  feet  in  the  rear  for 
entrances  from  the  kitchen  and  out-of-doors.  This  space  is 
designed  for  stairs  to  the  second  story.  They  should  be  wind- 
ing, and  start  at  the  right  as  you  enter  from  the  hall,  so  that  a 
view  into  the  green  house  or  conservatory  will  not  be  obstructed. 


LANDSCAPE 

GARDENING.                                           65 

8  is  a  Dining  Room,  16  by  20  feet,  with  a  bay  window.     The 

leading  door  is  from  the  hall, 

with  connections  to  9,  the  China 

closet;  10,  the  Butler's  pantry,  and  11  the  kitchen,  15  by  20 

feet,  then  12  comes  as  the  kitchen  pantry. 

WW  indicates  the  windows,  and  d.  the  doors.     The  chimneys 

are  all  marked  JJJ 

13  is   the  "Porte   Cochere"  or  entrance  by  carriageway  under 

shelter,  8  by  12  feet 

The  following  list  of  trees, 

etc.,  against  numbers  in  figure 

correspond  to  numbers  on  the 

plan,  and  designate  the  place  in 

which  a  tree  or  shrub  should  be  planted : 

1.  1— White-leaved  Linden. 

35— Rockport  cherry. 

2— Purple-leaved  Beech. 

36— Elton  Cherry. 

3— Purple-leaved  Elm. 

37— Early  Purple  Guigne  C  herry. 

4 — Purple-leaved  Beech. 

38— Louis  Philllppe  Cherry. 

5—  European  Sycamore  Maple. 

39— May  Duke  Cherry. 

0 — Large-leaved  Maple. 

40— Early  Richmond  Cherry. 

7— Red  Flowering  Horse  Chestnut. 

41— Purple  Fringe. 

8— European  Mountain  Ash. 

42 — Euonymus  or  Strawberry  Tree. 

9— Salishuria  or  Maiden  Hair  Tree. 

43— White  Fringe  Tree. 

10— Tulip  Tree  or  Liriodendron. 

44— Trefoil  Tree. 

11— Scarlet  or  Red  Maple. 

45— High  or  Bush  Cranberry. 

12—  English  Elm. 

46— Hemlock. 

13— Mahaleb  Cherry. 

47— Weeping  Birch  (Var.  Elegant  Pendula.) 

14— Osage  Orange. 

48 — Weeping  Cut-leaved  Birch. 

15— Deciduous  Cypre.ss. 

49— Young's  New  Weeping  Birch. 

16— Scotch  Larch. 

50 — Weeping  Mountain  Ash. 

17— CembrUn  Pine. 

51— White-leaved  Weeping  Linden. 

18— White  or  Wymouth  Pine. 

52 — Siberian  Arbor  Vitie. 

If* — Magnolia  Glauca. 

53 — Arbor  Vitse  (Var.  Compacta.) 

20— American  White  Spruce. 

54 — Chinese  Golden  Arbor  Vita?. 

21— Red  or  Norway  Pine. 

55 — Chinese  Arbor  Vitie  (Semper  Aurea.) 

22— Lawson's  Cypress. 

56— Tom  Thumb  Arbor  Vitse. 

23— Corsican  Pine. 

57— Arbor  Vitae  (Globosa.) 

24— Magnolia  Soulangeanv 

68— Arbor  Vit.-c  (Ericoides.) 

25 — Austrian  Pine. 

59— Plnus  Mugho. 

26—  Scotch  Pine. 

60— Pinus  Mugho  Rotundata. 

27— Norway  Spruce. 

61— Pinus  Pumilio. 

28 — Cucumber  Tree. 

62— Dwarf  Hemlock  (Canadensis  Arono.) 

29,  29,  29— Lorobardy  Poplar*. 

63— Abies  To.tuosa  Compacta. 

30, 30— Norway  Spruce. 

64 — Abies  Excclsa  Pygmea. 

31— Balsam  Fir. 

65 — Abies  Pumilla  Nigra. 

32— American  Arbor  ViUe,  or  American  Rod    66— Savin. 

Cedar. 

67— Trailing  Juniper  (/.  Sabina  Alpina.) 

83— Black  Tartarian  Cherry. 

68 — Junipcrus  Squamata. 

34— Red  Jacket  Cherry. 

69,  69— Juniperns  Repena. 

66 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


70— Fill  this  bed  as  follows  :  The  rear  or 
back  line  from  the  road  with  Weigelas  or 
varieties,  set  three  feet  apart  and  one  foot  from 
the  edge  on  the  curve.  Plant  the  center  with 
Tree  Honeysuckles,  Japan  Quince  and  Altheas 
mixed.  Then  fill  the  balance,  keeping  the 
front  curve  in  line,  with  Lilacs,  Spireas  and 
Deutzias,  with  a  plant  of  Hydrangea  Panicu- 
lata  at  each  end  of  the  bed. 

71— This  bed  is  designed  for  Geraniums, 
Colons,  Lilies,  etc.,  from  the  green  house  or 
conservatory  in  summer,  then  filled  with 
Tulips,  Hyacinths,  etc.,  for  spring  blooming. 

72— This  bed  is  to  have  Clematis  and  CLnib- 
ing  Honeysuckles  next  to  the  porch,  with  ever- 
blooming  roses  in  front. 

73— Use  this  bed  for  Japan  Lilies  and  such 
other  bulbs  that  bloom,  so  as  to  carry  the 
season  through. 

74— Weeping  Juniper  (Oblouga  Pendula.) 

75— Plant  this  bed  with  Herbaceous  Peonias, 
two  or  three  Tree  Peonias  in  the  center,  then 
fill  balance  with  Ivies,  Phloxes,  etc. 

76 — Annual  flowers  or  low,  bedding  out,  free- 
flowering  plants. 

77,  77,  77,  77— Standard  Seckel  Pears. 

78,  78,  78,  78— Standard  Bartlett  Pears. 


79,  79,  79,  79— Standard  Beurre  d'Anjou  Pears 

80,  80,  SO,  80-Standard  Lawrence  Pears. 

81,  81,  81,  81— Standard  Winter  Nelis  Pears. 

82,  82.  82-Standard  Clapp's  Favorite  Pears. 
83— Transcendant  Crab  Apple. 

84— White  Winter  Crab  Apple. 

85— Cherry  Crab  Apple. 

86— Coral  Crab  Apple. 

87— Chicago  Crab  Apple. 

SS — Hyslop's  Crab  Apple. 

89 -Lady  Crab  Apple. 

90— Marengo  Crab  Apple. 

91— Seven  varieties  of  hardy  grapes,  to  be 

grown  on  stakes  or  trained  over  rocks,  as 

the  ground  may  allow. 
92-  Dwarf  Vicar  of  Winksfield  Pear. 
93— Donna  Maria  Cherry. 
94— Chickasaw  Plum. 
95— Cruger's  Scarlet  Plum. 
96— Wild  Goose  Plum. 
97— Winesap  Apple. 
98— Gravenstein  Apple. 
99— Red  Canada  Apple. 
100— Jonathan  Apple. 
101— Ohio  Nonpariel  Apple. 
102— Maiden's  Blush  Apple. 
The  locations  of  the  trees  from  83  to  102 

must  be  counted  according  to  the  land. 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


67 


PLAN   No.   12. 


:i     21         2i 


&ARM 


20    X       ro 
2C    y    20 


19 


8        I  10 


1 I' 


I 

L 


Scale,  25  feet  to  oni  inch. 

PUm  12  is  for  a  lot 82  by  150  feet,  and 
is  drawn  to  a  Bcale  of  25  feet  to  one 
inch.  This  ground  plan  we  have  de- 
1  for  a  plain  one-and-a-half  story 
house,  with  the  front  of  the  roof  to  have 
a  triangle  in  its  form,  bo  as  t.>  gives 
little  character,  which  almost  any 
architect  ran  arrange  from  a  single  hint. 
Referring  to  it : 

No.  1  is  a  hall  4  bj  32  feet  ;  door  at 
front  ami  side. 

No.  2  is  a  parlor,  with  a  with'  Bide 
window  and  bay  window  in  front.  The 
room  is  designed  for  16  by  In'  feet,  the 
bay  window  projecting  three  feet  and 
eight  feet  on  the  inside  spi 

No.  8  is  calculated  as  a  family  sitting 
room,  l»i  by  1*>  feet,  opening  into  a  bed- 
room, No.  5,  '  which  is 
also  entered  from  No.  4.  which  is  to  be 
the  breakfast  or  dining  room,  which  is 
12  by  1<)  feet,  and  opens  from  No  ,S,  the 
kitchen,  which  i.-  12  by  1»>  feet. 

From  No.  ."  there  is  a  closet  marked  6, 
4  by  4  feet,  and  from   \     3,  marked  7. 
tlosel  4  by  4  feet 

In  making   this  plan,   it  is  sup; 
that  an  alley  way  runs  at  the  rear,  where 
a  barn  or  stable  can  !>••  made;  or,  void 

of  that,  an  entrance   for  teams  with 
wood,  etc.,  for  the  house,  landing  at  the 
kitchen  door. 


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HAND-BOOK  OF  PRACTICAL 


The  following  schedule  of  trees  against  the  figures  in  numbers 
indicates  the  place  for  each,  designated  by  corresponding 
numbers  on  the  plan : 


1, 1— Cat-leaved  Birch. 

2— Furple-leaved  Beech. 

8— Indian  Birch  {Betula  Bhojpattra.) 

4-Purple-leaved  Elm  (Stricta  Purpurea.) 

5— Young's  Weeping  Birch. 

6— Cnt-leaved  Weeping  Birch. 

7— American  White  Spruce. 

8-  Cembrian  Pine. 

9— American  Red  Spruce. 
10—  Corsican,  or  Red,  or  Norway  Pine. 
11— Norway  Spruce. 
12— Pinus  Pumilio. 


15— Along  this  line  a  border  from  the  houee 
range  of  one  foot,  with  a  elope  or  grade 
of  two  inches  from  the  houee  ;  the  oppo- 
site side  should  have  a  grade  to  meet  it, 
making  a  rolling  water  carrier  inter- 
mediate, and  be  of  turf.  The  bank  next 
the  house  should  be  planted  with  Gera- 
niums, Petumias,  Callas,  Heliotropes, 
Verbenas,  etc.,  for  summer  blooms,  then 
if  the  proprietor  is  able,  let  the  bank  next 
the  house  be  yearly  replanted  with  Hya- 
cinths, Tulips,  Crocus,  etc. 


Roses,  Geraniums,  Verbenas,  Heliotropes 
and  annual  bulbs,  such  as  Japan  Lilies, 
Tulips.  Hyacinths,  Gladiolus,  etc.,  may 
be  planted  in  it. 

17— Black  Tartarian  Cherry. 

18-Red  Jacket  Cherry. 

10— Rockport  Cherry. 


13— Designed  as  a  form  ontlinc  to  enclose  the    16-Is  a  bed  to  be  planted  with  Perpetual 
planting   of   Spinas,    Deutzias,    Chinese   and 
Persian  Lilacs,  Hydrangea  Paniculata,  and  the 
dwarf  varieties   of   Tree   Honeysuckles,  with 
scarlet  flowering  Quince  and  Fcreythia. 

14— Is  a  bed   designed   for  the  planting  of 
what  we  term  half  trees,  or  first-class  shrubs, 
viz.  :    The  Weigelas,  Halesia,  Euonymns,  Dog- 
wood, Purp'e  Fringe,  White  Fringe,  Gordon's    20— Six  Dwarf  Pears,  one  each  as  follows  : 
Currant,  Althea,   Berberry,   etc.     Each   plant       Duchesse  d'Angouleme.      Beurre  Giffart. 
should  stand  three  feet  from  the  other,  and  one       Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey.     Bartlett. 
foot  from  the  edge  of  tbe  bed.    The  smallest       Vicar  of  Winkfield.  Beurre  d'Anjou. 

growing  plants  should  be  next  the  house  and    21— Three  Grapes,  varieties  as  follows  : 
the  largest  at  the  back-  Telegraph.  Concord. 

Hartford  Proline 
All  the  rear  of  this  may  be  used  for  whatever 
suits  best  the  proprietor. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


69 


PLAN    No.    13 


23 


? 


ii 


Scale.  26  eeet  to  one  nroH. 

Plan  No,  13  is  for  a  lot  50 
by  150  feet,  with  a  scale  of  25 
(ect  to  one  inch.  The  location 
of  the  house  is  40  feet  back 
from  the  street  It  is  supposed 
to  be  two  stories  high  with  a 
pointed  Gothic  roof,  three 
chimneys,  a  porch  in  front 
that  should  have  a  railing 
and  flooring,  which  will  make 
it  a  resort  from  the  second 
floor.  We  give  only  the 
ground  plan,  which  we  have 
changed  from  one  made  by 
Rev.  D  P.  Oakey,  Jamaica, 
Long  Island,  and  originally 
published  in  the  Horticultur- 
ist in  1806,  when  the  writer 
was  a  regular  contributor.  As 
we  have  said,  we  have  chang- 
ed his  ground  plan,  but  give 
his  perspective  view  of  eleva- 
tion. 


70 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


Perspective  of  Elevation. 


Plan  No.  13. 


The  following  is  the  size  and  position  of  the  rooms  in  the 
ground  plan : 

No.  1  is  the  front  porch,  6  by  30  feet 

No.  2  is  the  main  hall,  6  by  24  feet,  from  which  the  stairs  go 
to  the  second  story ;  this  again  opens  into  a  hall,  (fig.  7)  to  back 
porch  (fig.  13),  it  also  enters  a  hall  (fig.  8)  4  by  4  feet,  with 
door  to  kitchen. 

No.  4  is  supposed  to  be  a  living  room,  12  by  14  feet,  connect- 
ing with  a  bed  room  (fig.  5)  8  by  14  feet,  and  from  each  of  these 
a  door  into  the  main  hall,  the  rear  hall  and  so  to  the  dining 
room  (fig.  11)  which  is  12  by  16  feet,  and  entered  from  the 
kitceen  only  through  a  hall,  thus  excluding  all  the  bad  odors 
that  come  from  cooking. 

The  kitchen  (fig.  10)  is  10  by  16  feet,  with  a  closet  4  by  6 
feet. 

No.  6  is  a  room,  10  by  14  feet,  connecting  with  the  front  room 
(fig.  3),  which  we  class  as  the  parlor,  14  by  14  feet.  No.  6  may 
be  used  as  a  library  or  private  sitting  room. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


In  the  plan  for  planting,  no  carriage-way  haa  been  made  from 
the  front,  but  a  supposition  of  knowledge  has  beei  tained 

that  the  lot  would  have  an  alley  in  the  rear  for  bringing  in  coal, 
etc,  and  a  place  for  a  barn,  and  we  have  here  placed  it  20  by  1-4 
feet,  with  a  driveway  for  a  coal  cart,  eta,  to  the  kitchen.  The 
scale  in  which  the  plan  is  made  m  era  all  the  work,  any 

change  from  it  shall  never  be  acknowledged  by  the  editor  of 
this  book,  and  he  who  dor*  it  shall  be  prosecuted.  I  do  not 
hesitate  to  give  credit  to  whom  I  am  indebted,  and  the  man  who 
steals  from  me  has  a  record  for  a  future  to  answer. 

Reference  to  the  planting  of  the  grounds  is  like  unto  other 
plans,  made  by  figures  of  numbers  attached  to  trees,  correspond- 
ing with  the  same  figures  on  the  plan  : 

1,  1— Norway  Maples.  14,  14— TheM  beda  are  for  annuals  or  low 

2.  2— Cut-leaved  Beech  (Tncina.)  creeping,  ever  blooming  plants,  Ilka  the 
3— Purple-leaved  Beech  (Purj)vrca.)  Verbenas,  eta 

4— Magnolia  Acuminata  or  Cucumber  Tree.  15—  Fill  tli  I  apace  with  Dwarf  Arbor  VitM 

5—  Tulip  Tree  or  Liriodendron  TuBp&tra.  and  I' 

6— Lombardy  Poplar.  16— Black  Tartarian  Cherry. 

7,  7— Norway  Spruce.  17— Bockport  Cherry. 

8— This  is  marked  by  an  outline  to  be  filled  18— Bed  Jacket  Cherry. 

with  low  growing,  flowering  shrubs,   such  as  10— Louise  Pbillipe  Cherry. 

Deutzia   Gracilis,    varieties   of    Spireas,    and  80— -Early  Richmond  Cherry. 

Chinese  and  Persian  Lilacs.  21— Donna  Maria  Cherry. 

9— This  bed,  marked  by  outline,  should  be  83— Cembrian  Pine. 

filled  with  monthly  blooming  rosea  88  -American  White  Spruce. 

10—  This  bed  should  have  Dwarf  Evergreens  24— Austrian  Pine. 

in  it  as  its  center,  with  Juniperus  Bepena  aa  Ita  85  «  Bed  Pine. 

border  edging.  88— Whate  OX  Wymonth  Tine. 

11— This  bed  is  designed  to  be  filled  in  sum-  27— Standard  I  "ws  : 

mer  with   Geraniums,    Colcus,  etc,    and    the  t  the  road. 

bulbs,  such  as  nyacinths,  Crocus,  etc,  planted  2  Winter  Nells,  nest  back, 

in  autumn  for  early  spring  flowering.  1  Beorre  d'Anjon.  1  Bartlctt. 

12— This  bed  should  correspond  with  No.  11.        l  Lawrence,  without  reference  to  position. 

13— Fill  this  with  Hybrid  Perpetual  Botes.  2->— Six  varieties  either  of  Grapes  or  Dwarf 

Apples. 
29—  Vegetable  garden. 


72 


HAND-BOOK   OF  PRACTICAL 


PLAN    No.    14. 


21 


BARN 
20X40 


Scale,  40  feet  to  one  inch. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


::; 


References  to  Plan    14. 

First  the  house  is  placed  forty  feet  back  from  the  street 
The  ground  plan   we  have  remodeled  from  one  published  by 

II.  Hudson  Holly,  in  Harpers'  Magazine  of  May,  1870.  Tin- 
elevation  is  a  copy  from  Harpers'  Magazine  of  same  date,  me 
best  magazine  ever  published. 

Now  to  the  ground  plan,  the  scale  is  forty  feet  to  one  inch, 
and  so  the  porch  will  vary  from  8  to  10  bet;  it  is  marked  x  x  x. 

No.  2  is  a  hall  8  by  28  feet,  opening  to  No.  7,  which  is 
designed  for  the  stairway  above,  and  \a  12  by  16  feet,  with  a 
branch  of  4  bjT  8  feet,  having  a  light  of  window  as  a  guide  t<> 
the  stairway. 

No.  3  is  the  living  room  or  parlor,  16  by  20  feet,  and  opening 
to  Xo.  4,  16  by  16  feet,  with  a  bay  window ;  both  of  these  open 
by  doors  to  the  main  hall. 

No.  9  is  the  dining  room,  16  by  20  to  22  feet,  and  opens  from 
the  main  hall  and  through  No.  7,  which  is  a  hall  and  stairwav 
to  No.  5,  the  kitchen,  16  by  16  feet,  with  closets  (see  6  and  10) 
then  a  store  room  (No.  8)  8  by  20,  which  can  be  opened  from 
No.  9.  Again,  No.  4  can  be  used  as  a  dining  room,  and  Nos. 
9  and  8  as  living  and  bed  rooms. 


74 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


Elevation  to  Plan  No.  14 

Now  we  show  upon  the  plan  the  walks  and  roads  by  deeper 
lines  and  shading.  The  half  oval  in  front  of  the  house,  between 
the  carriage  road  and  foot  path,  shows  bed  cut  in  the  turf ;  these 
beds,  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  are  to  be  filled  with  flowering  bulbs,  plants, 
etc.,  according  to  the  taste  of  the  owner.  Bed  6  is  to  be  planted 
with  Dwarf  Evergreens,  the  Juniperus  Repens  being  the  edging. 

The  trees  on  this  plan  are  shown  as  follows : 

16— This  line  runs  along  the  roadway  and 
boundary  ;  fill  it  with  hardy  flowering 
shrubs,  arranging  for  the  tallest  growers 
to  be  near  the  barn,  and  tone  down  in 


1, 1, 1— Red  or  Scarlet  Maples. 

2— Weeping  Cut-leaved  Birch. 

3— Magnolia  Acuminata. 

4— Liriodendron  Tulipifera. 

5— White  or  Weymouth  Pine. 

6— Cembrian  Pine. 

7 — American  White  Spruce. 

8 — American  Black  Spruce. 

9— Norway  Spruce. 
10, 10, 10— Lombardy  Poplars. 
11, 11— Austrian  Pine. 
12— Scotch  Pine. 
13— Corsican  Pine. 
14 — Red  or  Norway  Pine. 
15— Mountain  Pine. 


their  growth  to  the  front. 
17— Early  Purple  Guigne  Cherry. 
18 — Rockport  Cherry. 
19— Black  Tartarian  Cherry. 
20— Red  Jacket  Cherry. 

22,  22.  22.-Standard  Bartlett  Pears. 

23,  23,  22— Standard  Beurre  d'Anjou  Pears. 

24,  24— Standard  Seckel  Pears. 

25,  25,  25,  25— Standard  Lawrence  Pears. 

26,  26,  26,  26,  26— Grapes. 
27— Vegetable  garden. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


Designs  for  School  Houses, 

art'/    /J/(ins  for  ih<     decoration    of  the 

i  ;  i-on  tk! ' s    Su  rroii  n  <l i n  <j . 


Th<-  writer  of  this  work  makes  no  pretensions  <>f  being  an 
architect,  having  studied  the  subject  onlj  in  connection  with  his 
planting  of  •  ■  tc,  to  make  harmony  with  the  surroundings 
of  the  house  ami  its  order  of  architecture,  hut  at  the  suggestion 
of  the  enterprising  publisher,  ami  with  a  desire  to  do  what  we 
.•an  for  the  public  ,Lr""<l.  we  have  prepared  the  following.  Our 
country  has  passed  but  a  hundred  years  since  its  day  of  freedom, 
vet  the  education  of  those  who  are  to  come  after  us  becomes  the 
duty  of  every  parent  in  the  land. 

The  school  house,  yard  and  grounds,  together  with  the 
•_r"\-ernment  of  the  teacher,  in  a  mild  yet  decided  manner,  gives, 
if  made  pleasant,  a  desire  to  the  child  to  go  and  learn. 

In  many  of  the  entirely  new  sections  of  the  United  States, 
an  be  used,  and  made  even  ornamental,  for  the  building. 
The  first  settlers  of  a  woody  tract  have  no  other  resource,  but  to 
build  log  tenements  in  which  to  live. 


«srr~^~K- 


As  we  write  this  the  Country  Gentleman,  a  journal  of  great 
value,  comes  to  us.  and  we  venture  to  take  from  it  an  illustra- 
tion of  a  log  house,  with  our  native  wild  \  inea  creeping  upon  it, 
its  dimensions  being  according  to  our  scale  about  U'>  ly  20  feet, 
which  of  course  can  be  enlarge!. 


76 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


Such  a  building  as  this,  placed  on  dry  ground  and  amid  a 
grove  of  trees  of  the  native  forest,  having  the  old  or  decayed 
trees  removed,  would  be  daily  visited  by  the  children  of  a 
neighborhood  for  learning  and  with  pleasure,  all  things  consid- 
ered, as  before  written  touching  the  teacher.  We  want  no  more 
use  of  the  rod,  for  it  is  time  that  intelligence  of  mind,  not 
passion,  should  rule.  Leaving  this  we  now  give  an  elevation 
design  taken  from  the  Horticulturist  of  186H,  made  by  G.  E. 
Harney,  a  capable  architect.  "We  have  changed  his  ground  plan, 
and  made  a  plan  for  the  planting  of  an  acre  <>f  ground  as  a  school 
ground,  giving  the  position  of  the  building.  We  give  the  lay  of 
the  grounds,  line  of  paths,  position  of  the  building,  but  have  not 
space  in  our  columns  to  give  a  definite  scale  for  the  planting. 
We  number  where  the  large  trees  are,  where  the  shrubs  are  to  be 
planted ;  but  first  our  copy  of  the  building  by  Mr.  Harney  as  a 
perspective  view. 


It  will  be  seen  at  once,  by  the  most  common  observer,  that  the 
design  is  to  be  constructed  of  boards,  set  upright,  and  battened. 
No  show  of  chimneys  has  been  given  by  Mr.  Harney,  and  in  my 
change  I  have  marked  where  the  chimneys  should  be,  supposing 
them  only  as  flues  for  stove  pipe,  and  opening  or  ventilating  at 
or  in  the  cupola  by  side  air  passages. 

The  height  of  the  main  rooms  should  be  12  feet,  rising  in  the 
center  of  the  principal  school  room,  marked  20x30  on  the  plan, 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING.  77 

from  three  to  five  feet.  We  quote  the  following,  touching  on 
Harney's  ideas  relative  to  the  inside  structure: 

"  The  wood- work  should  all  be  stained,  and  the  walls  tinted 
some  Boft  neutral  tint — gray,  cream  or  pearl  color.     The  windows 

are  all  sash  windows,  double  bung  for  purposes  of  ventilation  ; 
and,  in  addition,  there  are  two  ventilating  shafts  rising  from  the 
floor  through  the  attic,  and  terminating  in  the  ventilator  on  the 
ridge  of  the  main  roof.  These  shafts  have  openings  near  the 
floor  and  ceiling,  with  arrangements  for  opening  and  shutting  at 
will.  They  are  made  of  smoothly  planed,  well  jointed  pine 
boards,  and  measure  each  sixteen  inches  square  inside.  In  order 
to  keep  up  the  circulation,  and  to  supply  cool  air  from  outside,  a 
shaft  is  introduced,  running  along  under  the  floor,  and  terminat- 
ing at  the  platform  on  which,  in  winter,  the  stove  or  heating 
apparatus  will  stand,  and  from  this  distributed  into  the  room  by 
numerous  small  holes  in  the  riser  of  the  platform.  We  consider 
the  simplest  methods  of  ventilation  the  best,  and  the  above  will 
be  found  both  simple  and  effective.  The  great  desideratum  is  to 
provide  means  for  the  discharge  of  a  certain  quantity  of  vitiated 
air,  and  to  supply  its  place  by  the  same  quantity  of  pure  air, 
properly  warmed  in  winter.  To  make  the  discharge  more 
effective,  the  stove  pipe  may  be  carried  up  in  connection  with  one 
of  the  shafts,  rarifying  the  air.  and  making  the  upward  current 
stronger,  but  in  ordinary  cases  this  will  be  hardly  necessary. 

There  are  two  entrances  to  this  house,  one  for  boys  and  one  for 
girls.  Both  entries  are  ten  feet  apart,  and  are  in  the  main  build- 
ing, opening  directly  into  the  school  room. 


78 


HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


And  now  to  our  change  of  the  ground  plan.  We  make  A  as 
the  teacher's  stand ;  s,  the  position  for  the  main  stove ;  s  S,  in 
each  of  the  12x16  rooms,  both  of  which  to  be  used  as  class  rooms ; 
c  c,  the  position  of  the  flues  for  the  stove  pipes.  "We  have  laid 
out  our  paths  on  the  ground  to  be  ten  feet  wide  from  the 
front  gate,  sixteen  feet  directly  in  front  of  the  center  of  the 
house.  The  rear  line  carriage  path,  for  the  delivery  of  fuel,  and 
accommodation  of  those  who  take  their  children  to  school  on  a 
rainy  day,  we  grade,  as  the  lines  show,  from  ten  to  eight  feet- 
The  porches  are  indicated  on  the  plan,  and  the  rooms  10x10  are 
for  the  clothing  of  the  children,  one  for  the  girls  and  one  for  the 
boys.  In  the  rear  we  have  marked  B  and  c  as  for  two  privys, 
and  have  made  our  plan  that  the  boys  should  enter  and  use 
mainly  the  side  where  the  twin  roadway  is  shown.     The  outlines 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING.  7'.' 

of  beds  on  the  plan,  marked  1.  arc  for  hardy  flowering  shrubs. 
both  evergreen  and  deciduous.  2  is  a  Norway  Spruce;  the  re- 
mainder of  the  half  oval  to  be  in  turf.  3  are  for  deciduous  foresl 
trees,  provided  the  front  of  the  lot  faces  the  east  or  south.  If  the 
lot  faces  the  north  or  north-west,  these  should  be  changed  to  large 
evergreens,  like  White  Pine,  Norway  Spruce,  Scotch  Pine,  etc 
The  outlines  of  beds  marked  4  should  have  mingled  evergreens 
planted  eight  or  ten  feet  apart,  if  that  line  be  to  the  north.  On 
the  contrary,  if  to  the  south,  it  should  be  planted  with  second 
class  growth  of  deciduous  trees,  mingled  with  dwarf  evergreens 
in  the  fore  ground.  5,  5,  should  be  of  Norway  Spruce,  Arbor 
Vita?.,  etc.,  as  a  screen  from  the  outhouses.  All  the  land  beside 
what  and  where  we  have  named  should  be  in  turf. 


i 


80  HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


Hedges  and  Screens. 

Nothing,  perhaps,  to  the  lover  of  Nature,  adds  so  much  to  the 
cheerful  aspect  of  a  district  as  the  hedges  by  which  it  is  inter- 
sected, and  the  timber  and  other  trees  with  which  it  is  clothed. 
The  latter  stand  out  in  bold  relief  in  the  picture,  while  the  hedges 
fill  up  those  necessary  lines,  without  which  there  would  be  a 
certain  amount  of  blank.  A  good  hedge  is,  in  many  instances, 
a  farmer's  pride,  and  in  this  respect  he  looks  at  it  in  a  different 
light  from  the  admirer  of  rural  scenery,  to  whom  the  more  crooked 
the  hedge,  and  the  more  heterogeneous  the  plants  of  which  it  is 
composed,  the  more  beautiful  it  appears  ;  while  to  the  farmer,  a 
hedge  occupying  the  least  possible  space  of  ground,  straight  in 
its  outline,  and  forming  an  impassable  boundary  to  cattle,  is  the 
approach  to  perfection  which  he  delights  in.  The  hedge  is 
always  a  prominent  feature,  not  only  of  beauty,  but  of  usefulness 
on  the  borders  and  grounds  of  the  owners  of  suburban  villas. 

Screens  also  are  features  of  value  upon  all  places,  and  of  them 
hereafter. 

During  the  last  thirty  years  great  progress  has  been  made  in 
this  direction,  and  we  may  expect  to  see  still  farther  advances. 
In  many  districts,  however,  owing  to  gross  error  in  the  use  of 
plants,  or  in  the  case  of  cutting  and  pruning  hedges  once 
planted  have,  as  it  were,  disappeared ;  yet,  hedges  have  their 
uses,  and  I  hope  yet  to  see  their  general  adoption  over  the  large 
breadth  of  our  goodly  land,  much  of  which  is  now  sub- divided 
by  wire,  board  or  rail  fences,  a  constantly  yearly  drain  upon  the 
owners.  No  hedge,  planted  with  a  view  to  form  a  barrier,  should 
be  planted  with  varied  trees,  nor  with  trees  or  plants  liable  to 
sucker  or  throw  out  lateral  roots  long  distances,  thereby  making 
the  keeping  clean  the  land  fully  up  to  the  line  of  the  hedge.  The 
Maple,  Elder,  Willow,  and  various  other  trees  have  been  used, 
but  always  unsatisfactorily.  The  Osage  Orange  has  failings  that 
have  rendered  it  of  little  value  in  many  sections.     The  Thorn  and 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING.  81 

Wild  Plum  have  both  been  tried,  but  without  favor.  The  Honey 
Locust  is  a  tree  of  perfect  hardihood,  has   do  Buckets,  <>r  long, 

lateral  roots,  bears  the  shears  perfectly,  and  its  thorns  aid  in  its 
forming  a  perfect  barrier  "  We  look  upon  the  Honey  Locust  as 
the  best  plant  for  forming  a  farm  or  road  side  hedge  that  is  grown 
in  this  country.  Hedges,  apart  from  their  utility,  are  a  necessary 
feature  of  the  landscape  in  most  districts.  The  want  of  them 
where  high  cultivation  exists,  causes  a  sad  blank  in  the  winter 
scenerv ;  but  it  is  not  in  these  cases  only  that  we  advocate  their 
adoption,  for  their  value  on  many  of  the  large  tracts  of  land  on 
the  prairies  and  other  sections,  would  be  of  interest  and  value  to 
all.  All  of  this  change  of  varieties  of  plants  to  be  used  for 
hedges  we  look  upon  as  coming  to  us,  and  in  such  manner  that 
no  hesitation  to  plant,  or  care  to  cultivate,  will  remain. 

FORMING   OF   HEDGES. 

All  of  the  subject  matter  of  instruction  as  to  how  to  plant 
hedges,  mav  be  told  in  a  few  words,  and  will  apply  as  well  to  one 
variety  of  plant  as  to  another.  The  whole  is.  first,  to  have  good 
soil  free  from  any  standing  water.  Second,  make  a  trench  where 
the  hedge  is  to  stand,  two  feet  wide  and  eighteen  inches  deep> 
throwing  out  all  the  earth;  then  dig  the  earth  at  the  bottom  of 
said  trench  eight  to  twelve  inches  deep:  then  throw  the  best  of 
soil  over  the  bottom  to  a  depth  of  two  inches.  Third,  select  the 
plants  so  that  in  planting  they  will  all  be  of  one  size  ;  then  plant 
(carefully,  by  spreading  the  roots  and  working  earth  of  the  best 
kind  among  them),  at  distances  varying  according  to  the  plants, 
of  16  to  18,  or  20  to  24  inches  from  plant  to  plant,  covering  the 
upper  roots  about  four  inches  deep  in  the  trench,  and  finish  by 
leaving  the  ground  nearly  level  with  its  adjacent 

PLANTING  FOR  SCREENS, 

The  planting  of  trees  to  act  as  a  screen  to  a  building,  or  pro- 
tection of  a  garden  or  orchard,  varies  from  that  of  hedges  only  in 
placing  the  trees  at  greater  distances  apart. 


82  HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 


VARIETIES   OF   TREES. 

The  Iloney  Locust,  or  Three  Thorned  Acacia,  Osage  Orange, 
and  Buckthorn,  are  the  only  three,  deciduous  plants  that  we 
recommend  for  permanent  hedges  as  barriers.  The  first  and  last 
named  may  be  relied  upon  in  almost  any  section  of  our  country ; 
but  the  Osage  Orange  is,  in  many  locations,  unsuited,  because 
from  extreme  cold  it  is  liable  to  kill  out.  Fancy  hedges  of 
various  flowering  shrubs  are  frequently  made  as  boundaries  to 
garden  or  road  line,  where  cattle  are  not  pastured.  These  like 
the  varieties  of  evergreens,  cannot  be  depended  upon  as  barriers 
of  protection.  Among  evergreens,  the  Norway  Spruce  and  the 
varieties  of  Arbor  Vitas  are  most  commonly  used  and  popular ; 
but  all  evergreens  will  bear  the  shears  in  the  pruning,  so  that  the 
planter  may  choose  variety  at  his  pleasure.  The  practice  of 
alternating  varieties  in  the  row  is  often  equally  as  good  as  one 
distinct  variety,  while  it  gives  a  unique,  characteristic  appearance 
to  the  line.  For  instance,  the  Norway  Spruce  and  American 
Black  Spruce  are  planted  alternately ;  so  also  Ilemlock  alternate 
Cembrian  Pine  or  Lawson's  Cypress,  where  the  latter  will  bear 
the  winter.  The  American  White  Spruce,  White  Pine,  Corsican 
Pine,  each  and  all  are  good. 

Where  trees  are  planted  for  screens,  to  grow  twelve  to  twenty 
feet  high,  they  should  be  at  least  two  and  a  half  feet  apart;  and 
it  is  often  better  to  make  the  line  a  little  irregular,  by  placing  an 
additional  tree  of  another  variety  some  three  or  four  feet  back  of 
the  main  line.  Dwarf  hedges  of  evergreens  are  sometimes 
planted,  or  may  be  to  mark  the  boundary  of  a  flower  garden  or 
croquet  ground,  etc.  Varieties  of  the  Box,  Evergreen  Thorn, 
Junipers,  Kalmias  and  Yews  may  be  used  with  certainty  in  many 
sections,  but  the  Mahonia  is  not  always  an  evergreen,  but  a 
sub-evergreen. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


Winter   Decoration 

of  CJ/ten    (J r-oiutcis  and  in   the    "ETotLse.. 


As  winter  approaches  come  thoughts  as  to  the  manner  by 
which  the  front  grounds,  where  uow  are  beds  of  blooming  flowers, 
ean  be  made  features  of  attractive  and  agreeable  beauty  during 
the  coming  winter.  Again  comes  the  question  of  "How  i<> 
cheaply  have  som  -  green -fohaged  plant  in  the  window  all  the 
winter?"  rn  the  house  of  the  wealthy,  where  a  steady  heat  is 
kept  up  night  and  day,  almost  any  plant  can  be  grown  ;  but  my 
notes  are  for  those  who  perhaps  keep  no  steady  fire  night  and 
day,  in  any  one  room,  and  the  removal  daily  of  plants  subject  to 


\  %f^t  .-*  ---^TX~i 


No.   1. 

damage  from  frost,  is  a  task  that  is  labor,  and  often  forgotten  bo  : 
that  when  morn  comes  the  Geranium,  or  other  tender  flowering 
plant,  has  little  or  nothing  left  to  pleasantly  greet  I  To 

remedy  this,  in  the  house,  let  me  say.  make  a  bos   the  Length  of 
width  of  the  window  in  which  you  wish  it   to  stand. 
wide,  ten  inches  deep.     Make  the  bottom  board  of  the  box  with 


84  HAND-BOOK   OF   PRACTICAL 

grooves,  to  carry  the  water  to  one  point  for  outlet ;  next  put  in- 
side a  false  bottom  board,  having  quarter  inch  holes  in  it,  once 
every  four  inches — this  false  bottom  board  to  be  two  inches  above 
the  lower  one.  Place  flat  stones,  broken  to  two  inches,  or  there- 
abouts, upon  the  bottom ;  the  two  inches  of  good  garden  soil,  and 
for  working  in  among  roots  to  be  planted  herein,  get  good  leaf 
mould,  i.  e.,  the  soil  next  under  the  turf  of  an  old  grass  pasture, 
or  the  soil  from  ground  where  an  old  wood-pile  has  been.  Now 
plant,  next  to  the  outside  border  of  this  box,  with  varieties  of 
Sedums  and  Lysimachia,  alternately  ;  next,  inside  plant  of  Juni- 
perus  Eepens  and  Nana,  using  Nana  as  corner  plants ;  next,  one 
plant  each  of  Pinus  mugho  rotundata,  at  each  end  of  the  box, 
inside  of  the  Junipers  ;  next  plant  two  of  Taxus  adpressa  and  two 
of  Taxus  ericoides;  next,  one  at  each  end,  inside  of  the  last,  of 
Evergreen  Thorn,  and  finish  with  center  plant  of  Hemlock, 
Lawson's  Cypress,  or  some  dwarf  Arbor  Vitaa.  These,  when 
planted  with  the  earth  up  to  within  half  an  inch  of  the  surface — 
that  covered  with  fine  moss  will,  with  care  in  watering,  keep 
green  and  fresh  all  winter,  and  in  the  spring  the  plants  can  be 
used  in  the  open  ground.  We  have  often  visited  rooms  where 
ferns  and  many  delicate  climbing  vines  were  growing  in  glass 
cases,  without  any  extra  heat  other  than  what  might  come  from 
an  open  grate  or  wood  fire  place.  Flora's  admirers  are  more  than 
even  the  most  ambitious  flirt — if  there  is  such  a  creature — could 
desire ;  but  her  gems,  i.  e.,  Flora's,  are  not  all  made  of  flowers. 
Foliage  is  a  gem,  without  which  many  of  her  most  brilliant  colors 
would  not  be  noticed.  Contrast,  it  is  said,  makes  harmony,  bat 
such  is  not  always  the  case ;  yet  the  shades  of  green  that  belong 
to  foliage  always  give  a  pleasing  contrast  with  the  flower,  no 
matter  what  its  coior. 

We  have  seen  in  the  center  of  a  window  a  fancy  piece  of  rock 
work,  formed  upon  a  common  plank,  grooved,  so  that  all  water 
should  run  to  one  outlet.  Broken  rocks  of  selected  colors,  or 
what  some  term  rough,  ungainly  moss,  overgrown  boulders,  laid 
up  in  resemblance  of  some  rocky  point  or  mound  one  has  seen 
in  their  wanderings,  and  mingled  with  them,  leaf  mould,  or  good 
loamy,  sandy  soil  (not  peat  from  a  low,  swampy  bog);  into  which 


LAX  1  )SC  APE     ( :  A 1 : 1  KN  I N  G. 


plant  varieties  of  ferns  and  hardy  creeping  vines,  such  as  the 
Chinese  Evergreen  Honeysuckle,  Ampelopsis  Veitchii,  German 
Ivy,  Tineas  of  varieties.  Pilea  reptans,  rose  and  lemon 

Geraniums,  some  of  the  hardy  Salvias,  Mahonias,  Creeping  Juni- 
pers, Daphne  Mezerium,  The  whole  forms  a  most  plea 
feature  in  a  room,  and  is  of  far  less  trouble  than  plants  grown  in 
pots,  to  be  changed,  repotted,  etc.,  from  time  to  time.  Another 
feature  of  this  style  of  house  decoration  of  Flora's  gems,  is,  that 
the  roots  are  rarely  injured  by  moisture  or  draught,  even  if  too 
often  or  too  rarely  watered. 


•-'«.•••., 


No. 


From  this  we  revert  to  the  common  practice  of  window  deco 

ration  with  pot  plants  and  hanging  baskets  filled  w  ith 
whose  graceful  lines  oft  wave  so  thick  and  fresh  in  the 
give  an  idea  that  they  are  like  the  Mi  ilv   upon 


86 


HAND-BOOK    OF    PRACTICAL 


air,  while  they  call  lovers  to  them,  under  the  impression  that  what 
may  there  be  said  shall  come  to  pass. 

Through  the  kind  courtesy  of  James  Vick,  Esq.,  we  copy  from 
his  Floral  Guide  some  illustrations  of  how  to  arrange  plants  and 
hanging  baskets  in  the  window. 

No.  1  represents  two  windows  on  each  side  of  a  mirror,  with 
plants  in  pots,  and  hanging  baskets.  This  is  apparently  given 
for  outside  than  inside  show. 

No.  2  shows  the  plants  in  pots,  and  mostly  upon  the  tloor ;  less 
of  hanging  plants  than  of  erect  form. 


No.  3. 

No.  3  is  a  tasteful  arrangement  of  plants  and  vines,  in  a  bay 
window ;  yet  we  think  a  cased  box  for  the  roots  of  plants  under 
the  window-sill,  and  the  climbers  planted  to  run  upon  fine  wires 
over  the  casings,  with  here  and  there  a  shrubby  plant  in  the 
center,  or  along  the  window  lights,  would  be  more  natural.  The 
vase  is  excellent,  and  so  the  hanging  baskets ;  but  as  we  have 
before  said,  there  is  generally  too  much  care  and  attention  re- 
quired in  this  matter  to  meet  the  resources  of  a  majority  with 
whom  purity  and  truth  are  always  in  association  with  earth's 
productions  of  beauty,  and  thus  a  forethought  of  a  future  paradise. 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


87 


No.  4  is  a  presentation  which  rarely  can  be  Found,  inasmuch. aa 
the  form  of  the  window,  with  the  heavy  stile  in  i  not 

generally  found  in  residences  of  those  who  cannol  depend  upon 
a  green  house  to  supply  plants. 


% 
U^J    '*""-& 


Hf5^-^' SE 


^h     1 


No.  4. 
Mr.  Tick  gives  some  good  and  sensible  remarks  in  his   Floral 
Guide,  touching  Bulbs,  and  we  refer  those  who  desire  to  grow 
bulbs,  to  his  work ;  nor  do  we  believe  in  delicate  plants  aext  :i 
window,  where  the  temperature  causes  frost  I  ft!  in  icy 

flakes  upon  the  outside  of  the  •  matter  what   may  be  the 

inside  heat  In  the  care  of  plants  in  windows  or  sitting  rooms, 
care  should  be  always  taken  to  keep  the  earth  moist,  yet  not  wet 
Water  with  rain  water;  never  use  lime-tone  water  from  a  well. 
The  time  to  water  is  generally  best  just  about  BUaset  Wh'-re 
plants  are  grown  in  pots  or  boxes,  the  covering  tic  with 

patches  of  moss  taken  from  decaying  wood  in  the  wood-,  or  from 


HAND-BOOK   OF  PRACTICAL 


moss  covered  rocks,  tends  to  keep  an  even  temperature  in  the 
soil.  Another  good  principle  and  practice  is  to  insert  the  crock 
in  which  the  plant  grows,  into  another,  so  much  larger  that  it 
will  leave  one  quarter  inch  of  space  around  it,  and  one  inch  at 
bottom ;  fill  this  space  with  finely  pulverized  charcoal,  placing 
more  or  less  of  fine  pebbles  in  the  bottom  to  secure  the  drainage 
from  the  main  pot.  Some  mingle  clean  sand  with  the  charcoal ; 
this  tends  to  keep  the  eafth  around  the  roots  of  the  plants  from 
immediate  direct  changes  from  moisture  to  drought ;  or  when 
watering  the  plants  a  light  watering  of  the  line  of  charcoal 
should  be  given.  Avoid  the  use  of  guano  or  other  stimulating 
manures  ;  but  let  the  rain  water  with  which  you  water  always  be 
of  a  tepid  warmth,  but  if  it  can  be  so,  from  the  sun's  rays. 
Where  plants  are  left  open  in  the  room,  they  should  be  covered 
with  a  light  cloth  or  paper,  during  the  process  of  sweeping  or 
dusting.     Flora  loves  cleanliness. 

It  is  unadvisable  to  grow  a  great  variety  of  plants  in  the  house. 
Many  that  are  beautiful  under  the  regular  temperature  and  care 
of  the  greenhouse,  prove  of  no  value  when  placed  in  the  change- 
able atmosphere  and  dust  of  a  living  room. 

OUSTIDE   WINTER  GARDENING. 

Lawns  or  front  door  yards,  as  often  called,  where  beds  of  flowers 
have  been  during  the  summer,  may  be  kept  in  good  appearance 
at  a  cheap  rate,  by  obtaining  from  the  woods  or  from  waste  trees 
in  nurseries,  branches  of  evergreens  of  varieties,  and  setting  the 
ends  in  the  ground,  arranging  the  heights  as  well  as  shades  of 
foliage  to  give  a  pleasing  effect  Another  way  is  to  obtain  small 
plants,  varieties  of  evergreens,  and  plant  them,  mulching  the 
ground  around  and  between  them.  These  can  be  removed  in 
spring,  set  in  a  shady  place,  and  used  again  the  coming  winter. 


mm 


J&  •-.• 

k-.-;.: 


Magnolia  Acuminata. 


Magnolia  Glanca. 
For  descriptions  see  pages  ji  <"/</  j- 


^1- 


swaSR* 


Norway  Spruce. 

For  description  see  page  22. 


Austrian  Pine. 


For  description  sec  page  21. 


Hemlock  Spruce. 

For  description  see  page  22. 


European  Silvkb  Fir 

For  description  see  page  21 . 


Lawson  Cypress. —  Cupressus  Lawsoniana. 
For  description  see  page  20. 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Annuals 5 

Amateur  Landscape  Gardening 1 

B 

Bedding  Plants 15 

C 

Cuttings  of  Shrubs  and  Plants 13 

ID 

Deciduous  Trees  and  Shrubs 8 

Description  of  Trees,  Shrub?,  &c 19  to  24 

IE 

Evergreens 14  to  17 

:f 

Fine  Arts  in  Landscape  Gardening 5 

Flower  Gardening 4 

Fountain 80 

Fruits — desirable  varieties 50 

Garden  Soil 8 

( i  rass  Lawns 1 u 

Ground — keep  the  surface  loose 10 

view  of Bfl 

Gardening,  Winter v^ 

Hollyhocks 14 

Herbaceous   Plants W 

Ha.dv  Annuals !•"» 

Hedges  and  Screens 80 

Lilies 15  a,ld  1C 

Landscape  Adornment 56  to  59 

Lawns •* 

Grass I  ° 

the  making  of 9 

id: 

Mulching  Trees 43 

:p 

Plan  No.    1.— Lot  30x150  feet 43 

Plan  No.    2. — How  to  improve  a  place 45 

Plan  No.    3.— Lot  100x300  feet 47 

Plan  No.    4.— Lot    50x150  feet 49 


96  INDEX. 

Plan  No     5.— Corner  lot,  100x200  feet 52 

Plan  No.     G.     For  a  large  lot  from  5  to  500  acres    53 

Plan  Xo.    <).— Lot  100x200  feet 61 

Plan  No    11. -Lot  100x320  feet 63 

P  an  No    12  -  Lot    32x150  feet 67 

Plan  No.  1:3.  — Lot    50x150  feet 69 

Plan  No.  1:}.  —  Perspective  of  elevation 70 

Plan  No.  1-1  — Ground  plan 72 

Plan  No.  14.— Elevation 73  and  74 

Perennials 14 

Pruning  Trees  in  Spring 11 

Pruning  Trees  in  Winter 12 

Rural  Home  Adornments 5 

Polling  Walks  and  Roads 8 

Roses,  propagation 13 

Removing  Trees,  &c 17 

S 

Seed  for  Lawns 9 

Shrubs,  under  drip  of  trees 12 

Hardy 13 

Condensed  Description  of 17  to  42 

Ornamental  Deciduous 38 

Condensed  Description  of  Ornamental 39 

School  Houses 75  to  79 

Screens,  Planting 81 

Suburban  Residence  for  a  gentleman 47 

T 

TurfiDg  New  Grounds 8 

Trees,  protect  the  crowns 11 

Pruning  in  Spring 11 

Winter  pruning 12 

Plow  up  to  the  roots 12 

Bush  and  pyramid 12 

Condensed  Descriptions  of 17  to  42 

Weeping  Deciduous 22 

Deciduous 25  to  38 

Varieties  for  Hedges  and  Screens 82 

Transplanting,  Evergreens,  &c 17  and  18 

Illustrations  of  choice  varieties 89  to  94 

w 

Walks  and  Roads 7 

Walks  and  Ground  Plan 58 

Winter  Decoration 88  to  88 


